Saturday, May 29, 2010

Lettuce 101

Making salad has become so easy with pre-washed mixes.  The wide variety of lettuces available at supermarkets and farmer’s markets leaves no excuse for a salad-less dinner.  Produce departments at many supermarket chains have automatic water sprayers that keep vegetables looking fresh but create  water-logged lettuce that shortens its shelf life. It’s important to wash this lettuce and dry it well to get the most out of your purchase.  

When you buy heads of lettuce, (soaked or dry and freshly harvested),  make salads easy to throw together with a little ahead of time prep.  That way clean, crisp lettuce is always at hand for sandwiches, burgers and salads.  This simple cleaning and storage technique comes from Madeleine  Kamman,  one of TV’s early cooking teachers  who  shared food handling methods that were simple and brought out the best in pure dishes. 

Salad spinners are a great tool but to really get clean crisp lettuce add my extra step to absorb extra moisture.  This works with and without a spinner:

  • Pull leaves from head and soak in a large bowl of cold water.  (If using a salad spinner, soak leaves in the outer bucket.)  Stir the lettuce around and if the stem ends are holding a bit of dirt rub lightly with your fingers.  Let lettuce soak ayt least 5 minutes.  This allows any dirt or sand to settle to the bottom of the bowl. 
  • Lift lettuce out of water and place in the spinner’s strainer or a colander.  By lifting the lettuce out, debris that has fallen away stays at the bottom and the leaves come out clean.  
  • If using a spinner, now is the time.  If you do not have a spinner go on to the next step giving each leaf a good shake over the sink to remove excess water.  


  • Lay out 2-3 clean kitchen towels.  (Paper towels can be used here but are not as re-usably green.)  Layer leaves over first towel.  Lay a second towel on top and continue to layer leaves onto towel  until all leaves are used.   
  • Now loosely roll the towels “jelly roll” fashion and place lettuce roll into a large plastic bag (like the ones in produce department).  You can secure the ends of the towels with rubber bands to keep the roll intact. 
  • Place in the refrigerator and let the towels soak up moisture for at least one hour.  The cool humid environment is a perfect atmosphere for crisping lettuce.  After an hour (or overnight) remove the leaves and store in a plastic bag.

    Enjoy your salad days. 

    Sunday, May 23, 2010

    Grilled Chicken

    If you are not a year-round griller, now is the time to roll the grill onto the patio and shake down the equipment before Memorial Day weekend arrives.   Herewith, a reminder of things we know you know and some ideas for three great chicken grill outs.  Have a safe summer. 

    Grill Prep
    Set the grill on an even surface and away from overhanging branches or building parts (like porch roofs and soffits).  You and the grill should be several feet from exterior walls or high fences.

    The best time to clean a grill is when it is piping hot.  The heat will assist you in removing debris.  If your grill has been in storage, give it a little extra attention before firing it up. Dust off the casing and legs and, if needed, wash with mild dish washing soap and water using non-abrasive tools.  Check the soot catcher on charcoal grills to be sure it is empty and clear.  Scrape out any soot and debris in the belly and hose the whole thing off, removing all suds.  Let dry. 

    Gas grills using propane tanks should get a safety check.  Follow the instructions for cleaning, maintenance and hooking up tanks. Most things around a grill go wrong after a period of disuse or after refilling and reattaching the grill's gas container.  The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) began releasing safety tips for grills as early as 1997. Check http://tiny.cc/grillsafety for their advice, particularly on checking hoses and tubing for wear and blockages. 

    When you are ready to clean the grill rack and cook, heat the grill and cover it to heat the grate.    Turn on gas grills, preheat and close the cover.   For charcoal grills, place the grill over hot coals and close the cover briefly to heat the grate.  Scrub the grill with a stiff wire brush once it is hot.

    Some back yard cooks like to follow up with a small amount of vegetable oil on a paper towel administered carefully with tongs.  Too much oil will cause flare-ups but a small amount will prevent sticking of more delicate foods like fish and vegetables.  Your choice.   

    Firing It Up
    Charcoal Grills
    If you are a fan of charcoal grills like us, invest in a chimney starter.  They are inexpensive (under $15) and eco-friendly.  They eliminate the need for lighter fluid to ignite the coals and the decidedly unappetizing eau d’lighter fluid on your cooked food.

    To use a charcoal starter, you will need about 3 half-sheets of newspaper and a long-necked lighter or long match.  Place the newspaper in the bottom section of the chimney.  Place the chimney right side up on grill grate and fill the large cavity with charcoal.  Light the paper with the lighter.  The flaming newspaper will light the charcoal and the cylinder will quickly ready the charcoals, in about 15 minutes.  When the coals have developed a ashen exterior pour the glowing coals into the grill and place grill rack on top.

    Control in charcoal grilling comes from the placement of the coals, the distance the grill rack sits from the coals and the amount of time the coals have been ready.   Although there are no hard and fast settings, seasoned grillers learn that coals 10-15 hot are at about medium heat and piling coals to one or either side of the grill allows for a range of temperatures from direct or indirect heat.  It is easy to get a feel for it and, for purists, half the fun of grilling. 

    Gas Grills
    Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for preheating and grilling.  When cooking with gas grills, you have great control.  Cook your chicken on a low setting for the initial cooking and when the meat has reached the proper temperature,  finish the chicken on a higher setting to crisp the skin more or continue on low to baste with sauces. 

    Prep the Food Safely
    Marinades
    Treat marinades like raw meat, that is, separate from other foods.  It is very important to prevent cross contamination with  other foods both cooked and raw.  Once you have used a marinade,  throw away any excess.  If you would like to use part of the marinade to baste the meat while it is cooking, set aside a portion before it comes in contact with raw meat or double the recipe and keep the second half separate for basting.  

    Basting Rules
    Sugars in sauces cause chicken skin to char and burn. To prevent this and still attain a crisp skin, brush on the sauce after the meat has been turned once so the sauce can cook and adhere to the top of the meat.  After brushing sauce on the second side, place the piece off direct flames or over dying coals.  The sauce will thicken and cook onto the meat but will not burn.

    How to Grill Chicken
    Cook chicken on medium to medium-low heat.  Be patient and you will have beautiful bronzed poultry that is tender, juicy and most important, cooked thoroughly.  

    Place chicken bone side down and let cook 12-15 minutes.  Larger pieces will take longer, smaller ones like wings will be ready sooner.  You can accommodate the differences in size by placing the larger pieces over the hotter sections of the grill.  Turn the chicken and cook another 10-12 minutes.  Check your each piece with a meat thermometer.  

    When is it done? 
    The USDA says chicken is cooked when the internal temperature reaches 180˚F.  Many chefs look for 165˚F. If you are considering the lower temperature,  consider who you are serving.  The very young, elderly and those that have been sick are most susceptible to food borne illnesses. The internal temperature will continue to rise when the meat is off the grill so you can remove it when you are a few degrees short of goal and still retain a juicy interior. 

    A Little Rest
    Your dinner has been dancing on a bed of hot coals so give it a chance to rest.  You’ll be glad you did.  The internal temperature will even off, juices will be re-absorbed and it will give you time to collect everyone and everything else together for serving.  To keep chicken crisp while it rests, use a large platter so you don’t need to pile the pieces up and inadvertently steam the skin.  Give yourself at least 10-15 minutes.  If the wait is longer that 15 minutes,  cover the chicken lightly with tin foil. 


    Today’s Recipes
    All the marinades make enough for a whole, cut-up chicken or 4-6 pieces of either dark or light meat. 


    Tandoori Inspired Grilled Chicken
    No Tandoor oven? No problem.  Marinate this skinned chicken dish in tenderizing yogurt and spices overnight and put it on the grill for a taste of India that will beat the spice blues.  The chicken takes on the color of the spices, especially the yellow hue of turmeric.  Tandoori chicken is not a spicy dish and the cayenne can be eliminated if yours is not a heat seeking group.

    Ingredients
    6 oz plain yogurt
    juice of 1 lemon
    1 tablespoon vegetable oil
    1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
    1 teaspoon coriander
    1 teaspoon salt
    1/2 teaspoon cumin
    1/2 teaspoon turmeric
    1/4 teaspoon cayenne
    1/4 teaspoon black pepper
    1-2 cloves garlic, minced

    Method
    1. Skin chicken parts and with a sharp knife, make a few slits in the muscle of each piece.   Place chicken in a large bowl.  
    2. In a smaller bowl,  mix the yogurt with remaining ingredients.  Pour yogurt mixture over chicken and marinate overnight or at least 10 hours.  Turn chicken every few hours to coat completely. 
    3. When ready to cook, remove chicken from yogurt marinade and place on a medium- low fire.  Cook chicken 30-40 minutes turning once until cooked through.   
    Serve Tandoori chicken with Basmati  rice, a selection of chutneys and Indian breads.  Make a simple vegetable curry of cauliflower, green beans and chick peas by tossing the cooked vegetables with a curry spice blend and a little coconut milk or Greek yogurt. This side astes good hot or at room temperature. (Pack leftovers in a pita packet with any extra chicken the next day.)

    American Barbecue Chicken
    Orange and lime gives this tomato-based sauce a citrus note that is addictive.  This recipe was adapted from a barbecue sauce for spare ribs in the 1963 edition of The Good Housekeeping Cookbook.  The key to barbecued chicken is to hold off on basting it with sauce until the chicken is almost done.  This yields tender, juicy chicken with a cooked on glaze and a bit of crispness instead of a charred and thick exterior casing a dry bird. 

    Ingredients
    1/2 cup ketchup
    1/2 cup molasses
    1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
    zest  and juice of 1/2 orange
    zest and juice of 1/2 lime
    1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
    pinch ground clove
    1/4 teaspoon salt
    1/4/ teaspoon pepper
    1/4-1/2 teaspoon hot pepper flakes

    1. Add all ingredients to a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat until bubbling.  Lower  heat and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until sauce thickens a bit and takes on a glossy sheen. Use immediately or cool, cover and refrigerate.  Use within 3 days. 
    2. If you are marinating chicken, try buttermilk and some salt and pepper or plain milk with  lemon juice (1 tablespoon for every cup of milk).  Chicken can float around in a buttermilk marinade for up to 24 hours.  When ready to cook , remove chicken from marinade and pat dry.  Discard marinade. 
    3. Grill chicken according to directions above.  After turning chicken over, start basting with sauce. Keep on eye on the flames once the second side is basted.  Keep chicken pieces away from direct flames or over medium-low coals just long enough to form the coating/crust you like. Basted chicken will cook very nicely over indirect heat if you are the patient type. 
    Serve American Barbecue Chicken with cole-slaw, potato salad and steamed corn on the cob. Brownies, anyone?

    Boyfriend Chicken
    This was my husband’s go to marinade when we met.  It is easy but impressive.  It tastes good with pork chops too, especially with the addition of some freshly grated ginger. 

    Ingredients
    1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
    2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce
    1/4 cup cold water

    Method
    1. Mix the ingredients in a gallon sized zip lock bag.  Place chicken pieces in marinade and seal bag.  Place bag of chicken in a shallow bowl or pie plate and refrigerate 2 hours or overnight.  Turn bag over after a few hours to evenly distribute marinade. 
    2. When ready to cook, remove chicken pieces and discard marinade.  Grill as directed above.

    Boyfriend Chicken deserves some colorful vegetables on the side and a fabulous salad.  Try roasted or grilled asparagus, zucchini or yellow squash.  Sweet summer tomatoes and fresh mozzarella over lightly dressed greens and torn basil completes the table. A perfect at-home date for two or anniversary dinner with family years later....

    Sunday, May 16, 2010

    Spinach on the Side

    As I child, we only ate spinach at major holidays and always as a soufflé.  It was glamorous but sadly too rich for my young tummy.  Happily, my great Aunt Emma took pity upon me and quietly scooped my serving over to her plate when my parents weren’t looking, less a tiny teaspoon sampled under duress.  It was many years before I heard about this thing called fresh spinach. 

    These days spinach is served up at almost every meal around here.  Wedges of spanikopa pie make a quick breakfast on the run or lunch with a salad.  A serving of freshly steamed spinach with a teaspoon of mayonnaise and a pinch of tarragon makes a nutritious nest for a poached egg.  And creamed spinach and spinach soufflé are now welcomed at dinnertime and holidays, especially if I’m enjoying a steak house dinner. 

    In warmer weather, a steak needs a lighter side than traditional creamed spinach.  Thanks to the lessons of Italian cooks, simple steamed or sautéed spinach with garlic and olive oil is the most common way many of us eat spinach these days. Recently I had some leftover roasted tomatoes and created this variation that is a winner with outdoor celebrations featuring grilled meats and fish.  It tastes good hot or at room temperature allowing you to prepare it in advance.  Drizzle on a little extra virgin olive oil  when serving to amp up the greens.

    Spinach and Grape Tomatoes
    Serves 4

    Ingredients
    1 cup grape tomatoes (or cherry tomatoes)
    1 tablespoon olive oil
    1 clove garlic, smashed and peeled
    2 pounds fresh spinach (or 4 8-oz bags fresh)

    Method
    • Preheat oven to 450˚F. 
    • Wash tomatoes and toss with olive oil and garlic. Place in a small roasting pan and roast until tomatoes are cooked through but still hold there shape, about 12-15 minutes.  Set tomatoes aside. 
    • If you are using fully matured spinach rather than baby spinach, remove stems before steaming. To pull woody stems from tender mature spinach leaves, grasp a leaf folded lengthwise in one hand and rip stem away with the other.  
    • Steam spinach in a covered skillet in 1-2 tablespoons water.  Stop cooking as soon as spinach wilts.  
    • Drain and toss with roasted tomatoes.  Season with salt and pepper to taste. 

    Sunday, May 9, 2010

    A New Twist for Limes

    Limes are naturals in salsas, guacamole, key lime pies and drinks like gin and tonic and just about anything made with tequila.  It’s a key agent in ceviche and a great addition to marinades.  You knew about all of these.  Here are three more places to squeeze a lime for those of us who love the bright taste and sunny look of limes.

    Chicken
    Lime’s tart taste can cut your craving for salt and kick up flavor the way salt can.  If you are cutting back on sodium, squeeze lime on grilled chicken and send the salt shaker to the other end of the dining table.

    Corn
    Lime is also corn-friendly.  Squeeze it on unadorned corn or make a lime-spiked mayonnaise with a shake of cayenne.  Try corn salad dressed with olive oil, lime juice and cracked black pepper.

    Cantaloupe
    Lime turns cantaloupe into a treat with tropical overtones. Drizzle lime juice over your next wedge of cantaloupe to bring up some of the fruit’s more subtle flavors.  With or without a thin slice of prosciutto, this melon is special. 

    Pure
    Please use the real thing for really true flavor.  A little goes a long way.  It’s not hard to cut open a lime rather than twist off a bottle cap and limes will keep well.  After all the British Navy sailed long distances during the 19th century with them to provide the crew with critical vitamin C, a scurvy preventative . 

    Some limes can be less juicy than others and significantly less juicy than lemons.  Here’s the best way to get the most juice possible: roll your lime on a counter pressing down firmly to break down the pulp inside the lime before slicing.  Use a reamer to help extract the juice.  A reamer looks like a decorative wooden pine cone with a handle.  When you twist it into a lime half more pulp breaks apart and the juice runs down the cone’s rivulets. I lost my reamer ages ago and use a fork to help me squeeze out juice.  It is a pretty good substitute.  Some people recommend heating limes and lemons in the microwave on high for 10 seconds to help with juicing.  I haven’t blown up a citrus fruit yet but I expect someone has.  Prick your lime to allow expansion before your first microwave attempt and keep an eye on it.   

    Post Script
    Lime zest is cut from the thin green layer on the outside of the lime and holds flavorful oils.  A zester is an easy tool to use and a paring knife can also slice away the outer green peel.  Microplaners also make short work of zesting.  Just be sure to only  scrape away the green part and not the bitter white pith.  Zest can be added to fruit salads, baked goods and marinades for an extra punch of lime flavor.  Zest the lime before cutting into it for the best leverage and be sure to scrub the outside of the lime lightly to remove any debris or dirt.  Use a vegetable brush or rub with a little salt and rinse.