Thursday, December 31, 2009

Pure Drinks Party, Part 2

Beer, the other bubbly.

Beer has the longest history of all alcoholic beverages, brewed in ancient Egypt and Mesopotamia and perhaps even in the early Neolithic era. I learned a lot about beer this week from Eat This Not That via Men’s Health.com website. Carbohydrates and calories are the twin sins of beer to our modern bellies yet beer has its place and is the perfect pairing for many favorites from chili to pizza to Szechuan noodle dishes.

During childhood, my Czech grandmother and her sisters drank beer after dinner from the cask kept in the cellar. The beer was delivered weekly much as the milkman once came to my house to provide liquid nutrition to the children of the household. Beer’s main nutrition-heavy ingredient, brewer's yeast, is rich in magnesium, selenium, potassium, phosphorus, biotin, and B vitamins.  Unfiltered beers such as the “liquid bread” my relatives consumed in late 19th century New York City are considered the best sources of nutrients from brewer’s yeast.  Current beers cannot be counted on to provide similar benefit to risk ratios.

If you love beer, you probably already know your favorite brand. If you are an occasional beer drinker, it’s nice to know a little before making a selection. While I have always assumed that pale ales and lagers are lighter than stouts, dark lagers and wheat beers, the ability of modern brewers to manipulate ingredients has lead to a wider range of choice and flavor at every calorie and carbohydrate level.  I learned that dark beers do tend toward the heavier side, but paler beers do not necessarily mean lighter.  Color also has little to do with alcoholic strength, calories or carbohydrates since color relies on the type of malt used and added caramel color.

I grouped the beers listed on Eat This Not That into four categories based on calorie and carbohydrate count—above 160 calories, 140-160 calories, 100-140 calories and under 100 calories. See where your favorites fall or pick a taste profile you like from your preferred calorie range. You’ll find there are minor but discernible differences in carbohydrate and alcohol levels. Each group has good choices that are nationally available.

160-200 calories, 14+ carbohydrates
In this category I was surprised to find that Guinness Extra Stout was lower in calories and carbohydrates that Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale.  Wheat beers are in this category but are not nestled together.  Leinenkugel’s Berry Weiss packs twice the carbs as Blue Moon Belgian Wheat (by Coors) and over 25% more calories.  Despite the range, this group is high in alcohol and carbs as well as calories so savor these with a satisfying bowl of stew and consider cooking with it. Savoring is code for “drink it slowly”—that way your body will signal you that you are full in time for you to push away from the table (or the bar).

Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Ale
330 calories, 32 g carbohydrates, 9.6% alcohol

Leinenkugel's Berry Weiss
207 calories, 28 g carbohydrates, 4.7% alcohol

Samuel Adams Winter Lager
200 calories, 14 g carbohydrates, 5.8% alcohol

George Killian's Irish Red
162 calories,15 g carbohydrates,5% alcohol

Blue Moon Belgian White
164 calories, 13 g carbohydrates, 5.4% alcohol

Sierra Nevada Pale Ale
175 calories, 14 g carbohydrates, 5.6% alcohol

Guinness Extra Stout
176 calories, 14 g carbohydrates, 6% alcohol

Michelob Honey Lager
178 calories, 19 g carbohydrates, 4.9% alcohol

Redhook ESB
179 calories, 14 g carbohydrates, 5.8% alcohol

Budweiser American Ale
182 calories, 18 g carbohydrates, 5.3% alcohol

140-160 calories, 10-12 carbohydrates
Many of the most familiar and best selling beers fall in this category.  Perhaps the biggest surprise here is the range of carbohydrates among beers fairly close in calories.  I always thought Corona Extra was on the lighter side but next time I might select a Beck’s with four fewer carbohydrates especially if I’m having a burger instead of guacamole.

Yuengling Lager
142 calories. 12 g carbohydrates, 4.6% alcohol

Beck's
143 calories, 10 g carbohydrates, 5% alcohol

Miller High Life
143 calories, 13 g carbohydrates, 4.7% alcohol

Pabst Blue Ribbon
144 calories, 13 g carbohydrates, 5% alcohol

Budweiser
145 calories, 11 g carbohydrates, 5% alcohol

Foster's
145 calories, 11 g carbohydrates, 5% alcohol

Corona Extra
148 calories, 14 g carbohydrates, 4.6% alcohol

Dos Equis
149 calories, 12 g carbohydrates, 4.9% alcohol

Leinenkugel's Honey Weiss
149 calories, 12 g carbohydrates, 4.9% alcohol

Coors
149 calories, 12 g carbohydrates, 4.9% alcohol

Heineken
150 calories, 12 g carbohydrates, 5% alcohol

Hoegaarden
153 calories, 13 g carbohydrates, 4.9% alcohol

Red Stripe Jamaican Lager
153 calories, 14 g carbohydrates, 5% alcohol

Magic Hat #9
153 calories, 14 g carbohydrates, 4.6% alcohol

Stella Artois
154 calories, 12 g carbohydrates,5.2% alcohol

Bass Ale
156 calories, 13 g carbohydrates, 5.1% alcohol

Pilsner Urquell
156 calories, 16 g carbohydrates, 4.4% alcohol

Samuel Adams Boston Lager
160 calories, 18 g carbohydrates, 4.8% alcohol

100-140 calories, 5-10 carbohydrates
Still a lot of flavor choices here and the beginnings of light beers for some brands.  Surprises like Guinness’ Draught fall here along with Canada’s Rolling Rock.  Note that the carbohydrate range of this section rolls from 5 to 10.

Coors Light
104 calories, 5 g carbohydrates, 4.2% alcohol

Bud Light
110 calories, 7 g carbohydrates, 4.2% alcohol

Sam Adams Light
119 calories, 10 g carbohydrates, 4% alcohol

Guinness Draught
126 calories, 10 g carbohydrates, 4% alcohol

Rolling Rock Premium
132 calories, 10 g carbohydrates, 4.5% alcohol

Under 100, below 4 carbohydrates
Hot day, coming in from the gym, or just plain over your over the top holidays? These lower calorie and alcohol beers may be the right choice alternated with a glass or two of water.  Not known for their intense flavor profiles, they’ve got some kick and the familiar flavors of malt and mash we associate with the old master brew.

MGD 64
64 calories, 2 g carbohydrates, 2.8% alcohol

Beck's Premier Light
64 calories, 4 g carbohydrates, 3.8% alcohol

Michelob Ultra
95 calories, 3 g carbohydrates, 4.2% alcohol

Amstel Light
95 calories, 6 g carbohydrates, 3.5% alcohol

Miller Lite
96 calories, 3 g carbohydrates, 4.2% alcohol

Yuengling Lager Light
99 calories, 9 g carbohydrates, 3.8% alcohol

Budweiser Select
99 calories, 3 g carbohydrates, 4.3% alcohol

“Near Beers” like O’Douhl’s have changed the way we think about beer and some European ones, like Buckler, are now available. The alcohol has been removed but much of the flavor remains.  Not considered the hardiest brews, they are great add-ins to stews, soups and dips that call for beer and they are perfect for those who like the taste of beer with a hot bowl of chowder at lunchtime.

Safe night to all.

Wednesday, December 30, 2009

Pure Drinks Party, Part 1

New Year’s is heralded in with everything from all-night parties to 5K runs these days.  If your night includes a party but you’d like to go for a run (or just walk upright) tomorrow, plan ahead on the drinks.  Pure selections including non-alcoholic ones will help you start the New Year feeling, well, new.

#1 Rule—eat something. Alcohol goes with food not an empty stomach.  Don’t pick tonight as the night to start any calorie pinching diet.  Pick real foods.  Eat a bit of protein, graze the vegetable platter and indulge in bean dips like hummus.  Bread and cheese can also be your friend tonight.

Hard Liquor
By now, most have heard that clearer alcohols like vodka, gin and silver or white rums are less likely to have adverse effects the morning after.  Clear alcohols have had their flavorful “congeners” removed,   (Congeners are impurities from grains and sugar produced during fermentation.)  One theory is that with fewer congeners, there are fewer toxins for the body to metabolize including sugars.   If you like mixed drinks, light colored alcohols are a good call.  However, many experts caution that alcohol is alcohol.  Quantity, proof (strength) and time all factor into its effect on you.  Whether you prefer to bid farewell to the old year with a vintage cognac or a martini, moderation is the best path.

Try something different this year to lighten up.  If you are a bit tired of wine spritzers, try a cordial or liquor mixed with seltzer.  A shot of pear or peach schnapps, crème de menthe with an orange slice or a coffee or chocolate cordial in a tall glass of ice and seltzer makes a premium soda that can be nursed.  Opt for seltzer over high sodium club soda.

Wine
Wine goes so well with foods and is for may the simplest choice at the bar.  Don't make it a complete no-brainer though.  Use your noggin to give yourself a great night.   Wine drinkers can react in two ways (sulfites and histamines) and some background on purity can help.

All wines contain sulfites but our labeling requirements tell us little about the quantity in any given bottle.  Old world wines—such as those from France, Italy and Spain use sulfites in the field on grapes to prevent spoilage.  Wine makers elsewhere also add sulfites at additional stages of wine making including harvest and fermentation.  If you’ve ever had a “red wine” headache, you may have imbibed a high sulfite wine, possibly from a new world winery. If red is your choice, try an old world or organic one tonight and you may note a significant difference tomorrow.   On the other hand, if you have imbibed too much wine, you may just have a plain old headache.  Remember that white wines also contain sulfites. 

The true sulfite reaction is related to an enzyme deficiency in some people and can display as an allergic reaction. In response, the body secretes adrenalin.  Prolonged infusion of even low adrenalin levels can cause headache, lack of sleep and that heart pounding feeling we associate with flight or fight moments. 

The other issue with wines is histamine.  Alcohol can interfere with the breaking down of histamines.  If your nose swells or your face reddens when you drink wine, you may be fighting (and losing) a histamine reaction.  Some recommend taking an antihistamine before consuming wine.  Check with your medical advisor if you have any concerns.  People who have this reaction can often find brands of wine that effect them less than others.

Champagnes and Sparkling Wines
Champagne headaches are considered one of the worst morning-after hangovers.  This category is high in sugar and the bubbles don’t help.  Best cure—avoid cheap champagnes that rely on lots of sugar for their “pop.” Go for extra brut or brut zero and brut natural if you can find it. Despite its name, dry and extra dry champagnes have 12-20 grams of sugar per liter versus bruts with only 6 grams or less.   I’ve found that among true champagnes, those with a more pronounced almond versus citrus flavor leave me less affected.  Many oenophiles believe real champagne causes little damage due to its purity but I’ve had nice evenings and splendid mornings with Spanish Cavas and American sparklers provided they are dry.  You can also find dry Prosecos from Italy. 

Experts also recommend staying clear of sweets if you are drinking champagne and other sweet sparklers.  This only compounds your potential for trouble.  Smoky foods, a great match, may also have an after-effect on some people.  Happily, there are plenty of foods to pair with champagne that don’t upset the apple cart from seafood to creamy soft cheeses to mushroom appetizers, quiches and fois gras.

Non-Alcoholic Choices
Make non-alcoholic drinks more inviting by jazzing them up and even naming them something appealing.  Many parties have a signature alcoholic drink.  As a host, provide a signature or themed non-alcoholic one too.  Pre-skewer some wedges of pineapple, orange slices and strawberries.   Fruit garnishes put everyone, drinkers or not, in a festive mood.

Plain water—the Alternator.  If you are the host, have pitchers and ice out and easy to get to so your guests do not have to ask.  Make water self-serve and you will have fewer tipsy friends.  If you are the guest, drink some water before you go arrive or as your first drink of the evening.  If you are very thirsty and drink alcohol first, you will quaff too much. 

Alternating a non-alcoholic beverage with an alcoholic one will slow you down, keep you mindful of your state and provide hydration throughout the night.  Hosts will also want to stock up on non-alcoholic beer and wine, soda, juices and sparkling water. Here are a few more non-alcoholic offerings that will help guests slow down and savor the night:

Barley Water is associated with Britain and was once served to tennis players at Wimbledon to whet their whistle.  It will remind you of lemonade with more complexity.  If you have a British export/food shop in your city, you might be able to find some bottled.  If not, it is easy to make and flavored with lemon, Barley Water will add authenticity to a 1920’s theme night.

Lemon Barley Water
1/2 cup pearl barley
water
lemon peel
juice of 1 lemon
2+ tablespoons honey
extra lemons

Rinse 1/2 cup pearl barley then steep it with the peel of a lemon in 8 cups hot water (brought to boiling then removed from heat) for 1 hour.   Strain and add 6 more cups of water, 2 tablespoons of honey and the juice of the lemon.  Refrigerate and serve over ice with a wedge of lemon.  I read a recipe for barley water that included dried figs in the steeping step and a pinch of salt to bring up the flavors.  I’ll be trying this with a handful of dried figs and apricots. 

Punch is fun to serve hot or cold.  Unspiked, it’s another easy way for guests to alternate their evening between alcoholic and non.  Here’s a base recipe for a fruit punch that you can get creative with, adding ginger ale, seltzer or even ice cream.  It tastes great plain too.  If you are serving it cold, add mint leaves.  If hot try mint leaves and cinnamon sticks. 

House Fruit Punch
1 quart applejuice
1 quart orange juice
1/2 quart cranberry juice
1/2 quart pineapple juice
8 oz grenadine or pomegranate juice (optional)

Combine ingredients in a large punch bowl (cold) or place the juices in a large pot, heat it over medium then transfer it to a slow cooker on low for the evening.  Don’t forget to supply a ladle.

Other nice non-alcoholic beverages at this time of year include eggnog and hot cider. One of my brothers recently reminded me how perfect leftover eggnog is for New Year’s Day French toast (with or without the rum).  All you add is the bread and some of the leftover fruit garnish you cut up last night.  As for leftover apple cider, what a lovely drink to welcome New Year’s morning. 

Read Pure Drinks Party, Part 2 covering beer tomorrow. 

Monday, December 28, 2009

Pure Pantry

U.S. hunger statistics are too high and growing.  Many Americans, particularly children, suffer from under-nutrition.  This is a condition that results from eating quantities of food low in nutritional value.  At this time of year, many generous people join food drives and drop off extra groceries at their local food shelf and come closer than usual to the problem.  One of the paradoxes of the situation is a rise in obesity and obesity’s related health issues like diabetes and heart disease.  Not simply how much is in the pantry, but what is in the pantry could be a contributing factor.

What’s in your pantry?  If you took an inventory right now, would you find foods that are real?  Or would you find ones with ingredients you don’t recognize?  Many dieters know that if a high-risk food is not in the house, it’s less likely to be consumed.  Apply the same logic to a pure pantry.  If the staples in your pantry are purer, that’s what will end up inside your family.

Many are convinced that eating pure healthy foods is expensive. While it is true that cheap mixes and processed foods rely on inexpensive fillers and artificial flavorings to extend portions, there are plenty of good pantry choices where the maxim “less is more” rules.  The fewer ingredients on the label, the more real food you’ll find inside.  That is a real value.  If you are in the midst of making a donation, consider a rethink of your own pantry too. The advice on selection here is a good way for you to buy for your own pantry.

A random sampling of Food Pantry needs around the country shows some common items in constant need. Many food pantries request your help in keeping their clients healthy and ask for low- and no-salt versions.  When you donate, consider a natural brand or one with the least amount of processing.  The list below provides some of the most requested items and suggestions to help you fill the order with a purer choice.   Regular sizes work best for most pantries, but yours may appreciate larger sizes too—call and ask.

Most requested items:
Canned beans- low sodium is best.  All types are welcome.  This is the top item requested.

Cereal-- most requested: Cocoa Puffs, Mini Wheats, Raisin Bran, Fruit Loops, Lucky Charms.  This is a controversial item since our children are inundated with sugar in so many forms.  Perhaps we should call some of these packaged boxes of fun Sweets instead of Cereal and put them in their rightful spot on the menu: dessert instead of breakfast. Clearly cereal is of the best places to clean up our national food act. Go for low sugar cereal to donate and to feed your family. Sprinkle on a bit of sugar if you crave more.  Taste buds adjust faster than you think and your body will thank you. A word of caution, many manufacturers use several forms of sugar that can be listed separately.  Beware of cereals which appear to have less actual sugar but also have other sweeteners like high fructose corn syrup, rice syrup, etc.  Check total grams of sugar to get the real picture.

Pasta and noodle products- manufacturers learned that whole wheat is not this country’s favorite and have developed pastas with softer grains combined with whole wheat ones that taste great.  Introduce them to your own household in baked pasta dishes.

Peanut Butter- Many supermarkets have store brands that are natural.  Look for one with just peanuts and salt.  At the very least, skip ones that have sugar as an ingredient.

Potatoes, instant- Check the label.  Potatoes dehydrate easily and fillers are not necessary though simple preservatives are acceptable.  Fresh mashed potatoes are preferred but many food shelves do not have fresh vegetable facilities.

Rice and rice products- Opt for rice instead of rice products.  Brown rice is inexpensive and delicious cooked with low-salt broth.

Pancake mix- The less is more rule is important here since this is prime territory for fillers.  There are many good tasting multi-grain varieties.

Canned Soup-  Hearty varieties are in demand as well as low- and no-salt.  Low-Sodium broths are healthy on their own and as ingredients in many dishes.  A small amount of salt can be added at the table.  Alternatively, fresh or dried herbs boost and compliment broths replacing salt entirely.  Try adding dried thyme to canned chicken broth for a mid-winter flavor boost.

Canned Vegetables (corn, mushrooms, sweet potatoes, tomatoes)-- The vegetable should be the first ingredient listed.  Avoid brands with added sugars.  Look for brands low in sodium.

Canned Fruit (peaches, pears, oranges)—Look for ones packed in juice, not heavy syrup.  Applesauce tastes great without added sugar. 

Canned or tinned proteins- Tuna and other fish, chicken, meat stews are in high demand.

Canned tomato products—sauces, juice, whole or crushed tomatoes.  Additional ingredients like basil, peppers and onion are OK but shun extra sugars and salt.

Also requested:
Stuffing mix- plain stuffing with a small jar of poultry seasoning is a better bet than pre-packaged mixes.
Condiments (Salsa, Mustard, Ketchup, salt & pepper)Sugar (white, brown, Splenda)
Jelly—look for “all fruit” types rather than true jams and jellies.  Also try apple and pear butters.
Dessert mixes (muffins, cakes, frosting, pie filling, chocolate chips)- all children have birthdays so don’t neglect this category
Baby food
Drink and mixes (lemonade, juice boxes, decaf and regular tea bags & coffee)
Crackers, saltines

Some have facilities for fresh foods (vegetables, fruit, meats).  Call and ask.  Many food stamp and healthy kids nutrition programs still do not cover these items so it is very nice for families to have a source of fresh foods.   Root vegetables like onions and winter squash keep well but your local group may have means to store more perishable goods too.

Non-food items that are in high demand include paper towels, toilet paper, household cleaners, dishwashing liquid and laundry detergent, re-sealable plastic bags and 33-gallon trash bags and diapers.  There are healthy choices for most of these items too.  Non-toxic and natural cleaners and paper goods made with recycled fibers are easier to find and less costly than in years past.
 

Your generosity and kindness is needed and appreciated as we all relearn how to feed ourselves and our neighbors with both dignity and truly nutritious food. If you’d like to learn more, one of many good sources is the World Food Program’s website.  Information and resources on the site apply to populations both far away and around the corner.

Friday, December 25, 2009

Tasting Ice Cream

Making ice cream at the holidays is a nice way for everyone in the family to take part in the day’s feasting.  Today’s recipe can be made with little advance notice.

Over Thanksgiving one of the uncles instigated some ice cream making. Our nephew Liam took a starring role as head taster proving that reliable taste buds are ready to go at any age.  At first, Liam said more sugar would make it taste better.  But when he sampled his own mix, he found perfection with 1/3 less sugar than called for in the base recipe.  Here’s how he did it:


The Purist’s Vanilla Ice Cream
2 cups cream
2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/3-1 cup sugar

The ice cream mixture can be mixed in a bowl but if you have active bodies around the house, it is fun to shake the ingredients together in a plastic container with a well-fitted lid.  Since there is no egg in this recipe, it does not need to be cooked and is ready to go into the freezing bowl of your ice cream maker as soon it is mixed.  (We store the freezing bowls to our ice cream makers in the freezer so they are ready when we are. Otherwise most require several hours or overnight freezing.)

Combine first three ingredients plus 1/3 cup of sugar.  Mix together vigorously so that sugar is dissolved completely and have a taste.  Add sugar, just one tablespoon at a time until the sweetness suits your tasters.  Liam found he liked 2/3 cup of sugar.  Freeze according to your machine’s instructions and enjoy.  The ice cream should be stored in a re-sealable container in the freezer.  This ice cream passed the root beer float and pie tests. 

Another great holiday ice cream gets its sweetness from maple syrup and richness from egg yolks and butter.  Serve Maple Butter Pecan Ice Cream with holiday pies, Bouche de Noel or put a dollop in Mrs. Claus’ favorite, egg nog.

Maple Butter Pecan Ice Cream
3/4 cup pure maple syrup
1 tablespoon cornstarch
6 large egg yolks
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/2 cups coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts

Place cream in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat over medium-low heat to just simmering.   Meanwhile, mix maple syrup, cornstarch and egg yolks together with a whisk.  When cream is heated lower the heat and whisk about 1/3 of cream into maple syrup mixture stirring rapidly to prevent lumping.  (This step tempers the egg yolks so they can withstand the next stage of heating and thickening the cream mixture without scrambling the eggs.) 

Pour the maple syrup-cream mixture back into the saucepan with the rest of the warmed cream and cook over very low heat until mixture is thickened (do not allow to boil).  When mixture has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon, turn off heat and add cinnamon and butter.  Allow butter to melt, then pour ice cream mix into a separate container to cool completely. If you suspect there are any lumps or tiny bits of egg yolk, strain the mixture.

Store covered in the refrigerator.  Ice cream mix must be cold to properly freeze in an ice cream maker.

While the ice cream mixture cools, toast the nuts.
Preheat oven to 350˚F.  Place pecans in a single layer on a cookie sheet, (ungreased).  Bake nuts 60 seconds.  Check nuts to be sure no edges are burning.  Pecans are high in fat and burn quickly so use a timer to prevent forgetting them in the oven.  Check nuts every 30 seconds.  Pecans generally take no longer than 2-3 minutes.  They will crisp up as they cool.

When ice cream mixture is completely cool, pour into an ice cream maker and follow freezing instructions.  Add nuts according to manufacturers recommendations. Since most ice cream is removed from machines before it really hardens, I add the nuts after the ice cream is finished and out of the freezing bowl.  Store ice cream in a re-sealable container in the freezer.  Eat immediately or allow to cure and harden several hours.

Note: Ice creams made with "liquid" sugars like honey and maple syrup do not freeze as hard as ones made with cane sugar.  They will firm up more in the freezer. 
This recipe can be cut down for smaller machines easily.  Follow the directions above with the following proportions:
1/4 cup pure maple syrup
1 teaspoon cornstarch
2 large egg yolks
1/2 cups heavy cream
1/3 cup whole milk
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1/4 cups coarsely chopped pecans or walnuts

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Spring Roll Casserole

Replace wonton wrappers with filo dough and skip the rolling to make a crispy, low-fat treat that will satisfy your take-out spring roll cravings.  This recipe cuts out the labor of individual rolling and the drama of deep frying.  A spring roll filling of sautéed cabbage, carrots, mushrooms and scallions in a soy-rice vinegar sauce in layers of filo moves the spring roll from appetizer to main course as an appealing side dish that may get your family eating a few more vegetables tonight.  Add tofu to serve this as a vegetarian main dish.

Spring Roll Casserole
Filling:
1/2 pound cabbage (1/2 head), thinly sliced (1/4 inch)
2 carrots, peeled and grate
1 cup mushrooms, sliced (fresh or reconstituted dried)
1/4 cup sliced onion or scallion (about 4)
optional: 2-3 ounces firm tofu, cut in a 1/2 inch dice
1 tablespoon peanut or vegetable oil
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons dry sherry or sha xing cooking rice wine

Sauce:
1 teaspoons rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon soy sauce 
1/4 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon Asian chili sauce
1/4 cup fresh cilantro

Filo:16 sheets filo dough, defrosted (about 1/2 package)
cooking spray oil

In a large sauté pan, heat oil over medium high heat.  Add sliced cabbage, carrots, onions and mushrooms.  Saute stirring frequently.  After a minute or two of cooking, add grated ginger and black pepper. Once cabbage is wilted and cooked through and mushrooms are soft and tender, add soy sauce and sherry.  Continue to cook over medium heat until liquids are well absorbed.  Remove pan from heat and stir in any additional cooked items including leftover cooked vegetables, shrimp or tofu.  Set pan aside to cool. 

In a separate small bowl, make the sauce.  Combine the additional tablespoon of soy sauce with rice wine vinegar, sugar, chili sauce and cilantro.  When cabbage mixture has partially cooled, stir the soy-rice wine vinegar sauce into the cabbage mixture, coating all ingredients.  The recipe may be prepared a day ahead up to this point.  Store covered in the refrigerator or proceed to the next step.

When ready to assemble casserole, preheat oven to 400˚F.  Lightly spray a 9 X 13 baking dish with cooking oil.  

Working calmly and quickly, layer eight sheets of filo in the baking dish, spraying each sheet with a bit of cooking oil after it is placed in the dish.  A light touch here will yield a light and crispy result.  If you need to stop, even briefly, cover the filo with plastic wrap and a damp towel to preserve its flexibility.  If the sheets break or are hard to separate, just lay the broken pieces together in a layer.  All missteps vanish during baking and you will get better the more you handle filo.  By the time you are layering the top, you will be a pro.  

Top the bottom eight filo layers with the filling.  Check that there is no extra liquid by draining or by lifting the filling with tongs from the pan to the baking dish.  Layer the last eight filo sheets, each sprayed with some cooking oil on top.  Using a sharp knife, cut through 3-4 of the sheets to form a wide diamond or rectangle pattern. This not only looks nice, it provides a cutting guide for serving and prevents the dough from buckling unevenly while baking.  

Bake uncovered for 20-25 minutes until filling is hot and filo topping  is crisp and lightly browned.  If using a metal baking dish, filo may crisp more quickly.  Serve immediately.  This reheats well in the oven.  (Reheating in a microwave is not recommended.)

The casserole does not need a sauce but if you would like a quick sweet and sour sauce add 1/4 teaspoon mustard powder and a dash of soy sauce to 1/4 cup warmed apricot or peach jam.  Thin with a little hot water to create a simple sweet and sour sauce.  Drizzle on top of each serving.


Ingredient notes: Like most filled doughs around the world, egg rolls, spring rolls and pot stickers were originally a way to use leftovers so don’t despair if you don’t have every ingredient in the house.  Feel free to add any vegetable to the mix. I’ve added shredded zucchini, thinly sliced bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, even leftover cooked and sliced Brussels sprouts to this recipe.  Cooked shrimp will make this company-ready.  Add cooked vegetables and seafood after the cabbage has been sautéed.  If you don’t have rice wine vinegar, you can use apple cider vinegar diluted with a bit of water (2:1 ratio) and if Asian chili sauce is hard to find, add a dash of cayenne or skip it entirely. The list of ingredients appears long but many of them can be stored in the pantry (dried Chinese mushrooms, dark sesame oil)  or freezer (fresh ginger knobs, filo) and cabbage and carrots keep well in the refrigerator so once you've made this, it can be pulled off in a snow storm next time (as we did here). 


Is it an Egg Roll or a Spring Roll?
There is much confusion over the difference between egg rolls and spring rolls.  Based on the fillings we see in this country, many curious diners surmise that the difference is based on the filling.  Vegetarian rolls with ingredients like bamboo, Asian mushrooms and carrots are thought to be spring rolls while ones with pork and seafood are called egg rolls.   In fact, the difference between egg and spring rolls is the wrapper not the filling.  Spring roll wrappers are thinner and more delicate (sometimes made with rice flour) while egg roll wrappers use a wheat-based egg noodle dough that blisters a bit in the deep fryer.  Some sources point to Vietnam or Thailand as the source of spring rolls and China for egg rolls.  Others claim they both come from China and that spring rolls are served for the Chinese New year (late winter to early Spring- thus the name). Still others insist that Spring rolls are Chinese and egg rolls are unheard of there and may in fact be a Chinese-American invention.  For many the confusion is frustrating but for me it allows a certain amount of relaxation that can translate into a home spring roll in a casserole.  

Thursday, December 17, 2009

Cannoli Snowball Bites

Quick and delicious Cannoli Snowball Bites travel well to holiday parties and can make your contribution to the holiday buffet pure fun.  The traditional fried tube-shaped shells are replaced by a little piecrust cups with “snowballs” of filling.  The filling uses easy to find real ingredients that are actually good for you.  Dark chocolate, orange zest and pistachios are complimented by almond extract to the extent that the filling requires less sweetening than you’d think making this a great recipes to teach yourself restraint. The finished dessert is naturally rich without being cloying.  

You can prepare the elements of the dessert well ahead of time making this a nice time-saving gift to yourself.  It’s OK to use a prepared pie dough or pre-baked mini-tart shells in a rush. (Try to slect a brand with limited and recognizable ingredients.)  Puff pastry cut in small squares then baked can also be substituted. 

Cannoli Snowball Bites
Pie dough for 2 crusts
1 pint ricotta cheese (whole or part skim)
zest of 2 oranges
1/2 cup chopped dark chocolate or mini-chips
1/2 cup chopped pistachios
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
1/3-1/2 cup confectioners sugar or honey

Preheat oven to 400˚F.  
Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface.  Using a biscuit cutter or round cookie cutter, cut out 24+ rounds and place in small muffin tins creating tiny tart cups.  Prick with a fork and bake 8-10 minutes.  Remove from oven and allow to cool completely.

In a medium bowl combine ricotta cheese, orange zest, chocolate, pistachios and almond extract.  Add confectioners sugar or honey in small increments while tasting for desired sweetness.  You’ll be pleasantly surprised at how little sugar is required since the contrast with the nuts, chocolate and zest is a key part of the flavor profile.

The dessert may be prepared days ahead to this point.  

When you are ready to serve, scoop the ricotta filling into each tart cup and arrange on a pretty plate.  Use a small cookie scoop or melon baler to get the snowball look.  Or use two spoons to scoop and shape.  Don’t fret about filling them at the last minute.  The cups stay quite crispy for several hours.  Refrigerate any leftovers

Monday, December 7, 2009

A Winter Go-To for the Slow Cooker

This is the kind of dinner you imagine when the weather turns cold and you own a slow cooker.  An easy, hearty stew with a South American twist using some very native ingredients – sweet potatoes, black beans and chilies.  A wonderful combination that tastes good and looks  beautiful mounded over a bowl of brown rice.  This is not a very spicy dish however you can heat things up with extra cayenne or a good shake of hot sauce at the table. And it can go three ways—the original with cubed pork and chicken or vegetarian versions.  Even if you are not a large household, make the full recipe.  As with any stew, it tastes even better the next day and cooking once, eating twice is a great pure foods technique that makes the most of your time and effort.

South American Sweet Potato Pork Stew
Serves 6

1 1/2 pounds cubed pork
2 can low-sodium black beans, drained
1 1/2 pounds sweet potato in 1 inch cubes (3 potatoes)
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 cup fresh cilantro, divided
1/2 teaspoon(s) smoked paprika or ground chipotle 
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt and pepper
1 14-oz can low-sodium whole peeled tomatoes including juice
2 poblano chili peppers, seeded and chopped in large, bite-sized pieces
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
Juice from 1/2 lime
1 tablespoon olive oil

Toss everything (except half the cilantro) in the slow cooker.  Cook on high for 4 hours, or on low for 6-8 hours.*  Serve over brown rice or with warmed tortillas.  Garnish with the reserved cilantro before serving for a fresh burst of flavor.  A lime wedge is another nice accompaniment. Let everyone squeeze a bit onto their stew and experiment.  

Substitute chicken (cubed thigh meat) or skip the meat for a vegetarian stew over brown rice. 

*To make this without a slow cooker, preheat the oven to 325˚F and place the ingredients in a dutch oven.  Cover the pot tightly and cook 2-3 hours, until meat is cooked through and sweet potatoes are tender.  Begin checking for doneness after 2 hours.