Winter's Summer Break

It’s still freezing and the wind has been blowing hard.  Many of us just need a summer moment away from the cold winter sun.  I’m proposing grilled burgers for dinner.  The grill has not blown away in recent storms so we can duck on and off the porch to get our charcoal chimney starter going. If your porch is too bitterly cold and blustery to brave, burgers can be flipped on a grill or iron skillet under the more gentle winds of a stove top fan.

A mid winter cook out deserves some really fresh flavors.  Most can be purchased pre-made but if your family has tired of arts and crafts, snow forts and snow angels, invite them inside to help prepare the sides and imagine it’s summer for an afternoon.  Some easy dishes that you’d normally pull out of a package or freezer are pickles, cole slaw and steak fries.  For the truly adventurous, you can even create your own “house” ketchup.  These are fun “projects” that will give your (younger and older) children a chance to see how easy real food is to make and what pure ingredients go into their summer favorites.  These recipes can all be made in the morning or early afternoon and enjoyed that evening.

One Hour Dill Pickle Spears
Select a marinating container that will cover the cucumber spears so that they are submerged while marinating.  Test containers by placing spears in the container and filling with 1 1/2 cups plain water.  Kirby cucumbers are the little ones (about 4-5 inches long and un-waxed.  If you cannot find Kirby’s substitute one English cucumber and cut into thirds and then into spears.  Do not use waxed cucumbers. 

Ingredients
4 Kirby cucumbers, unpeeled
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon while coriander seed
1/2 teaspoon mustard seed (yellow or brown)
1/2 teaspoon fennel seed
2 tablespoons Kosher salt
1-2 tablespoons dried dill
1-2 garlic cloves- whole
4 tablespoons vinegar
1 1/2 cups water

Method

1. Wash the cucumbers thoroughly.  Rub wet cucumbers with a bit of salt to remove any specs of dirt.  Slice cucumbers into spears.
2. Place peppercorns, coriander, mustard and fennel seeds in a mortar and with pestle bruise and slightly break the seeds and peppercorns, just enough to release the flavors.  This does not take much effort and is a good kid project.  If you do not have a mortar and pestle (I pulled mine out of the back of a cabinet), you can coarsely grind the seeds in a mini food processor, spice/coffee grinder or even an emptied pepper mill. Don’t grind more than a few seconds.  A fun method closest to the results of a mortar and pestle and one that will get a few ice packed frustrations out is to place the spices in a plastic bag and go at it with a rolling pin.  Pass the pin around so everyone gets a chance.  
3. In the marinating container, toss the cucumber spears, salt and spices together using your hands to coat the spears.  Pour water and vinegar over spears.  Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour before sampling.  The longer you marinate them, the more flavor they will draw in. These pickles will keep for 2-3 days. 

If you like pickles on your burger, this recipe works well with cucumber slices too. 

Recipe derived from Wicked Good Dinner’s Kosher-Style Dill Pickles
http://wickedgooddinner.blogspot.com/2010/05/kosher-style-dill-pickles-without.html

Cole Slaw
If you are in huge hurry and want to have the taste of cole slaw now, replace the cabbage with shredded lettuce—a combination of ice burg and green leaf is nice.  Combine with the rest of the ingredients and serve immediately.

Serves 4
1/2 head cabbage
1 tablespoon salt
1 carrot, peeled
1/3 cup celery leaves (the tops of stalks), loosely packed
2 tablespoons mayonnaise or plain yogurt
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
1-2 teaspoon sugar or honey
salt and pepper

Method

1. Thinly slice or shred cabbage.  Do this by slicing 1/2 head cabbage into 2 quarters.  Place the quarters down on the cutting board on one of the flat sides and make a diagonal cut to remove the thick stem.  Now slice to create thin strands. Place cabbage in a large bowl.  (Yes, you can buy the pre-shredded stuff but try it once from scratch.  It takes about 2 minutes to slice cabbage.) 
2. Grate carrot and add to bowl.  Add chopped celery leaves. 
3. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper.  Taste dressing and adjust for tartness (vinegar/lemon juice) sweetness (sugar/honey) and salt/pepper.  Add dressing to cabbage mixture and toss well.  
4. Let cole slaw marinate (wilting cabbage) for at least 3 hours before serving.  

Steak Fries
This method of cooking steak fries is fast and results in a steak fry that is crisp on the outside and creamy inside.

1 large baking potato per person
1-2 teaspoons olive or canola oil per potato
salt and pepper
optional seasoning suggestions (pick one): paprika, rosemary,

Method

1. Preheat oven to 425˚F and wash and scrub potatoes to remove any dirt.  Prick potatoes with a fork on one side and bake for about 20 minutes.  (Potatoes will not be cooked through; they finish cooking during the next stage.)  
2. Remove potatoes from oven with tongs to a cutting board.  Using tongs or a dishcloth to protect your hands from the heat, cut potatoes in half lengthwise.  Cut each half into 4-5 wedges.  
3. Place potato wedges on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.  
4. Return potatoes to 425˚F oven and bake 10-12 minutes longer turning once or twice.  If you are using one of the optional seasonings, sprinkle on as potatoes come out of oven.  Try to time these so they can be eaten immediately. 

House Ketchup
I’m happy to see brands like Heinz eliminating corn syrup from their bottled ketchup.  Recently I was trying to find one without anything but the basics added and decided to make one from scratch based on my favorite Spanish tomato dip used for patatas bravas.  Once I started looking for recipes I recalled I once worked for a natural food company in Vermont famous for its all truly wonderful, all natural ketchup, Uncle Dave’s.  No wonder this journey seemed familiar.  

Ketchup is very simple.  Get the basic ratios down then get inventive and make a version your family loves.  Many cookbooks have recipes.  I like one form Better Homes & Gardens magazine assistant food editor Madison Mayberry.  If you want to experiment with some bolder flavors, I recommend making a batch and dividing it in half.  Serve the simple batch to purists and stir in some extras to the remaining half. Offer the bolder version to your personal research and development team—friends and family.  You may have developed a winner.  

Basic Ketchup
1 cup tomato sauce (try to find one that is only tomatoes and low sodium)
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Method

1. Mix the ingredients together in a small pot.  Cook over medium-low heat, stirring as needed, until sauce is cooked down a bit and thickened. This will take about 10 minutes. 
2. Variations and additions:  Use brown sugar instead of regular sugar.  Try different vinegars.  Add some spices (start with very small amounts): a pinch of ground cloves, celery seed, allspice, ground cinnamon, dry mustard, garlic, onion, cayenne pepper, smoked paprika, even dill or thyme. 
3. Pour ketchup into a bowl to cool slightly before spooning onto burgers and fries.

Summer will be back soon.

Apres Ski Cassoulet

A very simple version with smoked turkey thighs and frozen artichokes hearts.

It’s hearty, it’s elegant, it’s pure comfort food on a cold night.  And really, it’s just pork and beans at its best. This version combines a veggie version with a meat version so you get the most rich meal possible.  The recipe is forgiving because the must-haves list is short and the variations allow you to use what you have and what you like.  A crusty loaf of bread, a green salad and a hearty red wine keep things simple yet complete.  Bon appetit!

Cassoulet, the Easy Way
Serves 4, recipe may be doubled
Determine the meats you use by family preference. Provide a sampling of everything to amount to 1/4-1/3 pound meat per person (meat will cook down a bit) plus a cup+ of beans and vegetables.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 crushed garlic clove
2 celery stalks, sliced
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
2 cans low-sodium white beans, drained
1 can chicken broth 1 teaspoon dried thyme (1 tablespoon fresh)
4-6 sun-dried tomatoes chopped (1/2 can tomatoes with  juice)
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt (less if using regular rather than low-sodium beans)
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1-2 smoked turkey thighs or ham hocks (turkey preferred since it yields more meat, but your choice)
High quality pork sausage (chicken varieties can be substituted, try something new but not breakfast sausage)
Any of the following: thin pork chops (loin or shoulder, bone-in), duck confit, cooked ham chunks or slabs of pancetta, chicken (boneless, skinless chicken breast can be added part way through cooking if you have some picky eaters.)
Vegetable add-ins:
2 medium zucchini, sliced
1 can or package frozen artichoke hearts
1 cup green beans, sliced
2 carrots, peeled and sliced

In a large heavy bottomed pot with cover, sauté the celery and onion in olive oil then add garlic and stir briefly to release oils, being careful not to burn.  Lower heat and add beans, broth, tomatoes and seasoning. Nestle remaining ingredients (meats and vegetables) into beans and cover pot. Let simmer on medium-low temperature until vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes. 
This is a good slow cooker meal.  Set it up before you hit the slopes and enjoy après ski.  It will stew for up to 8 hours on low or 4-6 on high. Place onion, celery, carrots and green beans on the bottom of the pot if using a slow cooker.

Bonus Meals: Leftover cassoulet can be turned into soup for lunch the next day.  Remove any leftover meat and chop into bite-sized pieces.  Puree a few ladlefuls of the remaining cassoulet and return to pot with cubed meat. Add additional broth- enough to make it the consistency of soup.  It also makes a great bean dip, once meat is removed.  Just cook down the remaining beans and vegetables until almost all liquid is absorbed then puree.  Taste and adjust for seasoning. A nice blend-in is soft goat cheese to give the dip some body. You may want to add salt, pepper or crushed garlic also.  Serve as an appetizer with sliced vegetables and warm chunks of bread or crackers.

Apple Brown Betty

It’s such an old fashioned dessert.  I could not remember the last time I had it but the remains of a baguette and a few apples in the fruit bowl beckoned….

The brown betty I came up with has the best qualities of cinnamon raisin bread and apple pie filling.  It bakes up like a bread pudding but without the cream and milk so it’s a lighter dessert.  We serve it with plain yogurt, the kind with a bit of cream on top. (We’re enjoying Seven Stars Farm brand these days.)  These plain yogurts are low in sugars plus they are real food. 

This dessert serves four.  It’s nice to bake Rum Raisin Apple Brown Betty in individual ramekins so that everyone has their own.  The ramekins also provide the perfect balance of crisp cinnamon bread to warm apple filling.  If you’d like to serve this in a large casserole, choose one that is relatively shallow.  This recipe doubles and triples easily. 

Rum Raisin Apple Brown Betty
Ingredients
2 large apples, firm baking variety like Granny Smith, Jonathan, Jonagold, Crispin
1 1/2 cups day old bread, 1/3-1/2" cubes
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup brown sugar, divided
salt
1 tablespoon rum
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2-3/4 cup raisins
1 tablespoon butter
4 oz water

Methods

1. Preheat the oven to 375˚F.  
2. Using half the butter, place a small pat of butter in each of the four ramekins.  
3. In a small bowl combine bread cubes, 1/2 the brown sugar and cinnamon.  Add a dash of salt and mix well using your fingers or a fork.  Set aside.
4. Peel, core and slice the apples.  Chop the apple slices into a rough chop so that the pieces will fit nicely into the dishes.  (If using one larger baking vessel, you can leave the apples in thin slices.)  Place apples in a small bowl and add rum, vanilla, raisins,, remaining brown sugar and another dash of salt.  Mix well. 
5. Layer half the bread mixture into the ramekins.  Divide the apple mixture in four and add to ramekins as next layer.  Top with remaining bread mixture.  Dot with bread cubes with remaining butter.  Pour an ounce of water into each ramekin.
6. Place ramekins in a shallow baking pan and cover entire top with tin foil. If you do not have a baking or roasting pan that fits all four ramekins, you can cover and bake them individually though the larger pan makes it easier to move vessels in and out of the oven.
7. Baked covered desserts 30 minutes at 375˚F until apples are cooked and soft.  Remove foil and cook another 10-15 minutes until betty’s are crisp on top and all the liquid is absorbed. 
8. Remove from oven and allow to cool 10 minutes before serving.  Serve with plain yogurt, freshly whipped cream or ice cream. 

Saturday Potato Corn Chowder

Fast and really warming, this soup can be ready by lunchtime after a morning of sledding with the family or –not again- clearing snow from driveway, cars, roof and walkways.  A hot bowl of chowder is just the thing.  And if you are snowed in, you probably have the ingredients for this recipe on hand.  I’ve been reading a cookbook based on old Amish recipes and this soup is a distillation of recipes from the potato and chicken-corn soups section.

Potato Corn Chowder
Serves 6

Ingredients
4 thin-skinned (eastern) potatoes
2 stalks of celery
2 cups water or chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 cups frozen corn
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 teaspoon salt and large pinch black pepper
3-4 cups low-fat milk
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

Method

1. Peel and rough chop potatoes into 1/2 inch pieces.  Dice celery.   
2. Place potatoes and celery in a large pot with water or broth.   Bring to a boil then lower heat to medium and cook, partially covered, until potatoes are tender and easily mashed (about 10-12 minutes).  Stir occasionally to prevent potatoes from sticking to bottom of pot.  
3. Use a hand-help potato masher to create thin mashed potatoes.  (A immersion blender can be used as well but will create a less “rustic” result.)  
4. Stir in frozen corn, butter, salt, pepper and milk.  Cook over medium-high heat until corn is cooked through.  
5. Stir in parsley.  Serve plan or with hot sauce,  diced chicken, grated sharp cheddar cheese.  (Also nice with bread and cheese on the side.)

Last summer I bought corn in bulk at the farmers market.  The farm owners taught me to scrape and freeze the uncooked corn so I have plenty of frozen summer corn.  Commercially available frozen corn is fine here of course but check your farmers market next summer to find a farm that offers a similar deal.   Shucking and scraping 50 ears of corn was easier than you’d think and my neighbors made it a kids project. They were done in about an hour.