Wednesday, July 28, 2010

Brownie Baked Alaska

It’s got all the flavor of ice cream cake with a showy meringue coating.
First off: You can do this.  Despite the theatrical presentation, this is a very simple dessert to create, especially if you make in stages. It should be made a day or more ahead and kept in the freezer until the last step. In fact, it can be made a week ahead.  I even testing making the meringue a full day ahead and the results were just fine. 

Baked Alaska uses meringue to insulate frozen ice cream.   The “Alaska” is quickly baked in a very hot oven.  The outer layer of meringue becomes a beautifully browned and warm crust that protects the cool ice cream and a dark luscious brownie base inside. The last act of browning the meringue takes less than 10 minutes so let your guests relax at the table and enjoy the anticipation.

Equipment:
You will need an 8- or 9-inch cake pan, a glass or metal bowl 5-6 inches deep with a rim that is about equal in size or a touch smaller than the cake pan, plastic wrap, a large mixing bowl and electric beater. 

Here are the stages:
Brownie bottom
Bake your favorite brownie recipe (or mix) in a circular cake pan.  (Bake any leftover batter in a small pan or muffin tins.)  Line the pan’s bottom with parchment or a wax paper round and spray with cooking oil so the large brownie round will release easily and unbroken.  When baked, cool for 10 minutes then turn onto a cake rack to cool completely.  If making this over several days, wrap well and set aside. (Hide it if you think you have brownie marauders in the house.)
 
Ice Cream layer
Make or purchase 2 pints of your favorite flavor or flavors. Purists will like one flavor but a combination of flavors looks great when cut into and is right for a celebration or group with many tastes.   (Some flavor suggestions are below.) Let the ice cream soften while you line the glass or metal bowl with a large sheet of plastic wrap.  When the ice cream is soft enough to spread, line the bowl with a layer of the outer ice cream flavor about 1 inch thick.  Fill in the center of the bowl with the second, inner flavor.  Be sure to smooth off the top so it is even.  Cover bowl with more plastic wrap and place in the freezer. 

Inner/Outer
Raspberry sorbet/Vanilla
Cherry chunk varieties /Chocolate
Chunky fudge swirl varieties/Coffee
Rainbow sherbets: Strawberry/Lime (mix chocolate chips into strawberry flavor for a watermelon look)
Chocolate chip/Caramel
Orange sorbet/Mint chocolate chip
Pistachio/Strawberry

Assembly (Several days ahead or early on day you are serving.)
When the ice cream is solid, turn it out onto the brownie base.  Trim excess brownie so that there is no more than a 1/2 inch border.  Wrap well in plastic wrap then aluminum foil.  Place in freezer until you are ready for the last step. 

Italian Meringue Coating
Italian meringue uses a hot sugar syrup incorporated into whipped egg whites.  This effectively cooks the eggs and is very stable so can be done before dinner is served.

Sugar Syrup
1 cup sugar
1/3 cup water

Egg White mixture
4 egg whites
1/4 teaspoon cream of tarter (helps structure)
pinch salt

Beat the egg whites at low speed until they foam.  Slowly add the cream of tartar and salt and increase the mixer speed to high. Beat until soft peaks form. 

Bring the sugar and water to the simmer.  Let mixture simmer to the soft-ball stage (234°F to 240°F; 112°C to 116°C on a candy thermometer).

Beat the egg whites at the mixer’s medium setting and slowly dribble in the sugar syrup.  Increase speed to high and beat until cool.  The egg whites will form stiff, shining, upstanding peaks.  You may now set the meringue aside until ready to coat and brown the dessert.

The Finish
As dinner winds down,  leave your guests briefly to preheat your oven to 450˚F.  It will take about 15 minutes to reach this temperature.  Prepare your Italian Meringue if you have not made it in advance (set out the tools and ingredients before dinner.  Place the brownie ice cream dome on an oven-proof platter or cookie sheet.  Coat it with a thick layer of meringue being sure to cover the brownie right down to the base and onto the pan.  Dollop any extra on top and use the back of a fork to pull away meringue and form peaks and valleys.  This creates extra surface area for browning.  Place the dessert in the oven and set the time for 5 minutes. Do not wander.  Remove from oven when meringue is lightly browned and deliver to your guests.  If you have used a cookie sheet, ask for a hand moving the Baked Alaska onto a serving platter.  You will need at several hands holding wide spatulas.

The Baked Alaska Song
When I was sixteen I took my first ski trip to Colorado.  Vail’s village had been around not quite 20 years and my friend’s cousins owned the oldest restaurant in town, a turn of the (19th) century themed eatery complete with Ragtime singing waiters.  Their Baked Alaska came in several sizes and shapes and was of the more traditional type made with cake rather than a giant brownie.  It was quite formal looking with exquisitely piped meringue in wedding cake patterns.  The presentation was half the fun of ordering one.  The wait staff gathered and escorted a still flaming Alaska to the table singing:

Baked Alaska! Baked Alaska!
Enjoy this fine dessert!

If you try this at home, sing once through then repeat as necessary until dessert arrives at the table for service.

Individual Brownie Baked Alaskas (makes 6)
Give everyone their favorite flavor with individual desserts.  To make individual Brownie Baked Alaskas, scoop ice cream into large, plastic wrap-lined muffin cups.  Cover and freeze.  Bake brownies in a regular pan and cut out circles of brownie slightly larger than muffin diameters.  Assemble mini Alaskas and wrap as above.  When ready to coat with meringue, use an extra egg white to be sure you have enough to cover all surfaces. 

Leftovers
Extras store pretty well in the freezer (and don’t last long).  The meringue doesn’t freeze solidly and though you cannot re-heat it, this cool version is like the meringue on a lemon cream pie, think marshmallows.




Sunday, July 25, 2010

Heat Wave Foods

On the east coast, it feels like the heat waves will never end.  When one lets up, there is one right behind it.  I’m stocking up on thirst-quenching, hydrating foods for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Breakfast
Water-rich eye openers include oatmeal, yogurt (plain) and milk. Sugar is not your friend in the heat, so cut out or lower the sugar in your oatmeal. Replace it with a high-hydrating fruit like peaches, in season now. Citrus, especially oranges and grapefruit give you fiber and are just as “juicy” if you eat them as is rather than squeezed for the liquid only.

Lunch
Salad is an obvious cooling choice midday.  Make one with these top water veggies:
iceberg lettuce, spinach, cucumbers, celery, tomatoes and shredded carrot. Use a light dressing, a big squeeze of lemon and a drizzle of olive oil or go solo with a fruity fig or pear vinegar.

Cold soups are heat friendly too.  Whirl the salad ingredients together in a blender with a little low-sodium or V-8 juice and a big squeeze of lemon or lime juice.  Top your soup or salad with cold, steamed shrimp or white fish for a little protein.  Beans are a good option too.

Snacks
Don’t ignore snack time on hot days. In fact, take frequent breaks.  Watermelon, perhaps the lowest in carbohydrates of all fruits has plenty of water packed in.  A fruit salad (or a fruit soup using the method for cold vegetable soups) is also a thirst-quenching option.  Use a combination of cantaloupe or honeydew melon, papaya and mangoes.

Dinner
Grilling is the best dinner-time option when you don’t want to turn on the stove and the sun won’t set.  Like sea-food, meats retain much of their moisture when cooked so enjoy. Grill some mushrooms and peppers alongside your entree.  If you can’t get large mushrooms, skewer smaller ones with bell pepper and tomato quarters for a vegetable kabob side.  Rice, after it has absorbed water, is also heat friendly.  Enjoy it hot or cold. 

If grilling is not in the cards tonight, a quick stir-fry with your grilling ingredients plus bok choy and broccoli will satisfy without overheating you.  Finish the stir-fry with some chicken broth thickened with cornstarch, grated ginger and a low-sodium soy sauce. 

What To Avoid
Steer away from snacks or meals with added sugar and/or high salt amounts.  High fat foods, like doughnuts, pastries are not that helpful either.  Avoid processed and fast foods during extreme heat (if not in all weather) and the day will feel a bit less heavy.

Wednesday, July 21, 2010

Summer Corn Salad

With fresh corn by the dozen tempting us at farmers markets and grocery stores, small households may be overwhelmed by the bounty.  Last summer, the corn growers at my farmers market showed me how to buy in bulk and freeze.  Simply shuck the ears and pack them uncooked into freezer quality plastic bags. To enjoy the golden kernels during the winter, place the frozen ears directly into a pot of boiling water for 10-12 minutes, until the cobs are heated through, drain and enjoy.  While it takes some dedication to shuck 50 ears of corn (their recommended haul) it has a great payoff when the heat waves finally wear off and fresh corn is a distant memory. 

For those who’d like to enjoy corn leftovers right away, buy more than your family can consume tonight and plan on an easy side dish tomorrow that can be served hot or cold.  This corn and asparagus salad can be tossed with cooked pasta or left as is.  My version includes leftover grilled asparagus, fresh tomatoes and black olives but let your leftovers and larder inspire you.  Roasted red peppers, cooked green beans, grilled zucchini and  fresh herbs like basil, parsley or tarragon (all corn-friendly) will create a new look for your cooked veggies.  Adding pasta will extend the dish and useful if you have unexpected guests. 

Corn and Asparagus Salad
Serves 4-6 as a side dish


Ingredients
2 ears cooked corn
10-12 spears grilled asparagus
1 tomato
1 tablespoon sliced black olives
1 teaspoons apple cider vinegar
1 tablespoon  extra virgin olive oil
Salt and black pepper to taste
Optional: 2 cups cooked pasta, like (about 1 cup uncooked)

Method
  1. Remove kernels from ears of corn.  There are many implements for this but I like to use a serrated knife to scrape the kernels into a wide bowl that will catch wayward kernels.
  2. Slice asparagus and tomatoes into bite-sized pieces.  
  3. Toss corn, asparagus, tomatoes and olives together in a large serving bowl.  Add drained pasta if using.  
  4. Toss with vinegar, olive oil, salt and pepper.  This is a very small amount of dressing to allow the vegetable flavors to come through.  If you are using pasta, double the amount of oil and vinegar.

Wednesday, July 7, 2010

Mostly Spinach, Some Tuna

Heat wave food should be easy to prepare, light and tasty and ---keep the kitchen cool.  This Tuna Spinach Salad wrap is all that and made from ingredients in the pantry and in most refrigerators right now so it keeps life simple.  If you don’t have all the ingredients below, there is a list of other things that taste good with a base of spinach and tuna.  Mix all the ingredients together and roll it into whole wheat tortilla with lettuce, tomato and avocado.  Or serve it as a salad with pita bread or a roll.

Tuna Spinach Salad Wrap
 Serves 2

Ingredients
3 cups chopped fresh spinach
1 3.5 oz can water packed tuna
8 black olives, chopped
1 celery stalk, sliced thinly
1/4 roasted red pepper, chopped
1/2 Bermuda onion, chopped*
Juice of 1/2 lemon (or 1 tablespoon rice vinegar)
1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon each dill and thyme (use more if you have fresh herbs)
2 whole wheat flour tortillas, lettuce, tomato, avocado, etc.

Method
  • In a medium bowl, combine spinach, tuna, olives, celery and onion with a fork until nicely blended.  
  • Add lemon juice, olive oil and herbs and remix.  
  • Lay out tortillas and lay lettuce and other add-ins onto bottom third.  Scoop half of spinach-tuna mixture on top and roll bottom up and over filling.  
  • Bring in both sides and continue rolling to form the wrap.  Slice in half to serve.   Optional: add toothpicks to keep wrap closed.   

*You can use a freshly chopped red Bermuda onion or try marinating sliced or chopped onion in 1 part apple cider vinegar/3 parts cold water for a few hours.  The water-vinegar soak will cut any sharpness from this mild onion and infuse it with a slightly pickled taste that adds depth to this salad.  The marinated onion keeps well in its bath for up to a week, refrigerated.  Use it as a condiment on hot dogs and hamburgers or in a Greek salad, 

Extras
Artichoke hearts
White beans
Chopped hard boiled egg
Pine nuts
Sliced mushrooms
Chopped water chestnuts
Parsley, cilantro, basil, oregano

Here's a variation on the sweeter side:
Tuna-spinach- raisins-apple chunks-lemon juice-mayonnaise or plain yogurt

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Two Ingredient Cold Cauliflower Soup

Cauliflower Soup can get complicated but this recipe uses just two ingredients for the purist and easiest soup ever.  Eat it cold in the summer garnished with chives and black pepper like vichysoisse soup.   In cold weather,  it is as warming as potato soup without the extra carbohydrate load.  It freezes well too.  What more can one say?  Only that people who don’t think they like cauliflower (like children) really like this.

Two Ingredient Cauliflower Soup
Ingredients
1 large head cauliflower, cut into small florets
1 quart chicken stock  (2 cans of low sodium chicken broth is fine)

Method
  • Combine ingredients in a large pot and place over medium-high heat.  Cover and bring to a boil. 
  • Lower heat to a low boil (above simmer) and cook 30 minutes until cauliflower is soft.  
  • Use an immersion blender or a standard blender to puree the soup.  If using a standard blender, allow soup to cool 1/2 hour before blending to prevent a hot eruption.  If you’d like a thinner soup, add a bit of water.  
  • Taste for salt and pepper.  Depending on the stock or broth, you may add up to a teaspoon of salt.  Serve hot or cool and refrigerate for cold soup. 

Friday, June 25, 2010

Summer Antipasti

Antipasti allows you to create your own platter of favorites.  This grouping takes me back to the antipasti bars at restaurants in Italy that provide cool mid-day shelter and a terrific first course.
You can create this yourself from store-purchased, pre-made items and it will be as good as the quality of ingredients you can get your hands on.  Lately I find marinated artichokes in jars too sharp and the olives at supermarket antipasti bars a bit dull.  My husband despairs that too many shoppers have coughed all over these antipasti bars and once your mind goes there, you are done.  It’s time to make your own.   The good news is antipasti is easy and it’s a delightful way to contribute to a shared dinner.   Individually, any of these will make a nice little hostess gift as well, especially the house roasted mixed nuts or house marinated olives.  

Our platter, which served eight, included:
Marinated mushrooms
Salami horns with red peppers and baby artichoke quarters
Polenta triangles with sage
Sliced cantaloupe melon
House marinated olives
House roasted mixed nuts

A basic vinaigrette is the key to easy preparation.  Mix a batch and divide into several smaller batches.  Add herbs to match the vegetables you are marinating (oregano, basil or tarragon for mushrooms, thyme, dill or fennel seed for artichokes). 

Basic Vinaigrette
2 ounces apple cider vinegar
6-8 ounces olive oil
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Mix all ingredients together and taste.  I like to use a screw-top jar for this quantity.  For marinades, I keep the vinegar more prominent and use the lesser quantity of oil but go by your own tastes.  You can also try different oil and vinegar varieties. 

Marinated Mushrooms
1 10-oz package Portobello mushrooms, medium size
1 tablespoon olive oil
3-4 ounces basic vinaigrette
1/2 teaspoon each dried oregano and basil
garnish: fresh oregano

Cut mushrooms into bite-sized haves and quarters.  In a large skillet, heat olive oil over medium high heat and sauté mushrooms until just softening.  Remove to a bowl and pour vinaigrette and herbs over hot mushrooms.  Allow to cool for about 1/2 hour then refrigerate until serving, allowing mushrooms to sit at least 2 hours to absorb marinade.  Serve cold or at room temperature. 

Salami Horns with Red Peppers and Artichokes

1 red bell pepper (or a small jar roasted whole peppers
1 package frozen artichoke hearts
3 oz basic vinaigrette
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1/3 pound thinly sliced salami (your favorite kind)

If using a fresh bell pepper, roast skin under a broiler or on an open flame.  If using a broiler, cut pepper into sections (and remove stem and seeds)so they will lay flat on a foil lined roasting pan.  Broil 10-15 minutes until skin is well charred.  If using an open flame, use caution and tongs.  Place charred bell pepper in a paper bag to rest a few minutes during which time steam will help loosen the skin.  Peel away skin and slice pepper into long pieces.  Defrost artichokes using a microwave or over a steamer.  Toss with vinaigrette and thyme.  Set aside in refrigerator at last 2 hours.   To assemble horns, cut salami rounds in half and place a red pepper or artichoke quarter on the half.  Roll to create a horn and lay horn a serving platter seam side down.  You may stick a toothpick in horns to help them retain their shape and keep guest fingers neat.  Horns can be assembled hours ahead.  Lay a damp paper towel over platter and refrigerate. 


Polenta Triangles with Sage

3 cups water
1 cup medium grind corn meal
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon dried sage
1 tablepoon unsalted butter
olive oil
garnish: fresh sage leaves

Make polenta.  Bring water or broth to simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heart.  Stir in cornmeal and stir well to prevent lumps.  Once mixture begins to thicken (about 10 minutes on low heat), you will only need to stir occasionally.  Polenta is ready when corn meal is fully expanded and soft and all liquid is absorbed.  Thinly coat a 9” X 13” baking pan with oil and pout polenta into pan.  Cover lightly and refrigerate until firm, about 2-3 hours.  Cut into wedges, squares or use a cookie cutter to cut our specialty shapes.  Garnish with some fresh sage if desired. 

House Marinated Olives
2 jars olives in brine, any variety
large peel of lemon and orange (no white pith)
1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds
2-3 springs fresh thyme, rosemary and/or oregano
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
optional:1 dried arbol pepper or 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1-2 tablespoons olive oil

Preheat oven to 375˚F.  Toss all ingredients together and place in a small roasting pan or pie plate.  Cover tightly with aluminum foil.  Bake 20 minutes.  Remove foil and let cool about 20 minutes before serving.  Remove any large stems from herb sprigs but leave remaining flavor ingredients. They are edible and create a pretty, rustic look.  These olives keep refrigerated for up to a week and taste best at room temperature. 

House Roasted Mixed Nuts
2 cups of your favorite nuts, whole or havles
2 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon each: paprika, black pepper, dried rosemary, salt
pinch sugar

Preheat oven to 375˚F.  Mix all ingredients together and place in a shallow roasting pan.  Roast, watching nuts carefully to prevent burning.  Some nuts, like pecans, burn more easily than others.  Check every 3-4 minutes and toss nuts so that they are well coated each time.   Nuts need only cool a few minutes before serving and also hold up well at room temperature.  Store extras in an airtight container.

Sliced Cantaloupe Melon

1/2 cantaloupe, seeded and rind removed, cut in long, bite-sized slices
Serve plain with toothpicks or drizzle limejuice and/or a bit of honey on top.  Some people like freshly ground pepper on their melon.  Melon tastes superb nestled alongside chacuterie (witness prosciutto and melon). 

Antipasti ingredients can make dinner easy on hot nights.  Serve it along with a platter of cold pesto noodles, crusty rustic bread slices and a glass of an Italian white wine like Pino Grigio or Gavi or a red with the Sangiovese grape. (See June 20th entry for pesto recipe.)

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Pesto Rustico


Basil Pesto is a summer staple that whips up quickly in a food processor.  But that isn’t how it was always made so don’t let lack of equipment stop you from making a batch at a rental summerhouse.  All you need is a sharp knife and cutting board, a fork and a bowl.  

While I did not expect a mortar and pestle, I thought this house would at least have a cheese grater or micro-planer.  Thus, Pesto Rustico.  I washed and rolled the leaves of fresh basil into a cigar shape and cut the little roll into thin slices (chiffonade).  I destroyed the chiffonade with cross-wise slices that left me with finely chopped basil and placed it in a cereal bowl.  I added a large pinch of salt (my friction) and a handful of pine nuts.  Pine nuts are softer than the walnuts often used in American pestos.  Walnuts are generally less expensive but not easily crushed with a fork thus not the nut for this job.

With the side of a chef's knife, I crushed a whole garlic clove.  After peeling away the skin and I finely chopped the clove and added it to the basil leaves where the salt would help pulverize the garlic's pulp. 


With the back of a fork, I got to work crushing the basil against the salt and pine nuts to create a bright green paste.  Food historians believe this is roughly how the first pestos were made in mortars.  Using a pestle the hard working cooks pounded basil leaves with salt to produce a creamy base for pine nuts, cheese and olive oil.

Back at the cutting board I sliced and diced the Parmesan cheese into itsy-bitsy pieces that would melt into the warm pasta.  (A vegetable peeler would have yielded thin slices that would melt instantly but all I could find was a beer bottle opener.)  I mixed the cheese into the basil mixture and tasted for salt and black pepper.  (Remember that dry cheeses contribute salty flavor so add just enough at the beginning to help break down the basil leaves.)  A drizzle of extra virgin olive oil completed the flavor profile.






The result was a delightfully fresh and slightly deconstructed pesto that melted and melded into just drained Penne pasta.  Summer dinner with some grilled chicken.

Pesto Rustico
Serves 4

Ingredients
1 cup tightly packed fresh basil leaves
large pinch salt
1/3 cup pine nuts
1-2 garlic coves, peeled and finely minced
2 oz Parmesan cheese
black pepper to taste
3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Method
  1. Finely chop basil and mix with salt and pine nuts in a small bowl.  
  2. Add minced garlic.
  3. Crush mixture together with the back of a fork.  
  4. Grate or finely slice cheese and add with remaining ingredients to basil mixture.  
  5. Toss with 8 ounces cooked, hot Penne.  Serve hot or cold.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Banana Freeze Out

I can’t resist the quick sale section in the produce aisle.  Most eschew even looking.  Last week there were over-ripe bananas in quantity.  Too far gone for the regular bin, these were ready to bake into banana bread, banana pancakes, banana muffins and cookies.  Some were perfect to eat that day in cereal and fruit salad. 

Ten or twelve were packaged together for under a dollar.  That was the trouble.  One loaf of banana bread only requires two mashed bananas. Even the most ardent baker can’t drop everything to bake five banana breads.   Banana bread freezes pretty well but that’s a lot of time and energy for an impulse item.  And so most people have to pass up the produce sale section.

As it turns out, the freezer is part of the solution.  I bought a batch of very ripe bananas, set aside two  at their peak for the fruit bowl and picked two almost black-skinned ones for one banana bread I baked that day.   I put the remaining six bananas in the freezer as is.  Unpeeled, unwrapped. 

A week later, I removed four bananas and made cookies with two and Banana Freeze with the remaining two.  Banana Freeze is like the purest banana ice cream you can imagine.  The texture and flavor are true with no cream and no added sugar.

Brown Sugar Banana Cranberry Cookies
These are cake-like cookies and fit somewhere between a free form muffin and a scone.  Perfect any time of day. 

(Yield 30 2-inch cookies)
Ingredients
  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter, room temperature
  • 1 cup  brown sugar
  • 1 egg, room temperature
  • 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup  mashed bananas (about 2 bananas)
  • 2 cups whole wheat  flour
  • 1/2 cup rolled oats
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • 1 teaspoon of cinnamon
  • 1/4 teaspoon salt
  • 1/2 cup each chopped walnuts and dried cranberries
  • 1/3 cup toffee bits (try Heath Bits o Brickle)

Method
  1. Preheat  oven to 350°F. 
  2. Cream the butter and sugar together until light and fluffy. Add the egg and vanilla.  Continue to beat until the mixture is light and fluffy. 
  3. Add the mashed banana to the butter mixture. 
  4. In a medium bowl,  combine flour, oats, baking soda, salt, and spices.   Stir well with a whisk to evenly incorporate ingredients and lighten mixture.  Stir into butter and banana mixture and mix until just combined. 
  5. Fold  walnuts, cranberries and toffee bits into batter.  
  6. Use two tablespoons to  drop in small mounds of batter onto parchment paper-lined baking sheets. 
  7. Bake for 11-13 minutes or until nicely golden brown. Let cool on wire racks.
Banana Freeze
For each serving, use 1 frozen banana
Optional: chocolate syrup, chopped nuts, strawberries or cherries, whipped cream
  1. Allow unpeeled banana to sit at room temperature 10-15 minutes until partially thawed.  
  2. Peel banana and place in a wide bowl or pie plate.  With a sturdy fork or potato masher, mash banana until fairly smooth.  (Do not be tempted to use a food processor.  The heat produced by the high friction liquefies the banana.)  
  3. Scoop into serving bowls and enjoy immediately plain or with toppings.  Banana freeze can be re-frozen.  Thaw a few minutes before enjoying. 

Next week,  perhaps banana cheesecake with a chocolate crumb crust. 
All this for less than a buck.

This week apples hit the sale section. 
Hmmm, apple pie, apple butter topping for oatmeal, apple danish, apple turnovers, apple cake (try Arthur Schwartz’s  made with matzo cake meal).

Saturday, May 29, 2010

Lettuce 101

Making salad has become so easy with pre-washed mixes.  The wide variety of lettuces available at supermarkets and farmer’s markets leaves no excuse for a salad-less dinner.  Produce departments at many supermarket chains have automatic water sprayers that keep vegetables looking fresh but create  water-logged lettuce that shortens its shelf life. It’s important to wash this lettuce and dry it well to get the most out of your purchase.  

When you buy heads of lettuce, (soaked or dry and freshly harvested),  make salads easy to throw together with a little ahead of time prep.  That way clean, crisp lettuce is always at hand for sandwiches, burgers and salads.  This simple cleaning and storage technique comes from Madeleine  Kamman,  one of TV’s early cooking teachers  who  shared food handling methods that were simple and brought out the best in pure dishes. 

Salad spinners are a great tool but to really get clean crisp lettuce add my extra step to absorb extra moisture.  This works with and without a spinner:

  • Pull leaves from head and soak in a large bowl of cold water.  (If using a salad spinner, soak leaves in the outer bucket.)  Stir the lettuce around and if the stem ends are holding a bit of dirt rub lightly with your fingers.  Let lettuce soak ayt least 5 minutes.  This allows any dirt or sand to settle to the bottom of the bowl. 
  • Lift lettuce out of water and place in the spinner’s strainer or a colander.  By lifting the lettuce out, debris that has fallen away stays at the bottom and the leaves come out clean.  
  • If using a spinner, now is the time.  If you do not have a spinner go on to the next step giving each leaf a good shake over the sink to remove excess water.  


  • Lay out 2-3 clean kitchen towels.  (Paper towels can be used here but are not as re-usably green.)  Layer leaves over first towel.  Lay a second towel on top and continue to layer leaves onto towel  until all leaves are used.   
  • Now loosely roll the towels “jelly roll” fashion and place lettuce roll into a large plastic bag (like the ones in produce department).  You can secure the ends of the towels with rubber bands to keep the roll intact. 
  • Place in the refrigerator and let the towels soak up moisture for at least one hour.  The cool humid environment is a perfect atmosphere for crisping lettuce.  After an hour (or overnight) remove the leaves and store in a plastic bag.

    Enjoy your salad days. 

    Sunday, May 23, 2010

    Grilled Chicken

    If you are not a year-round griller, now is the time to roll the grill onto the patio and shake down the equipment before Memorial Day weekend arrives.   Herewith, a reminder of things we know you know and some ideas for three great chicken grill outs.  Have a safe summer. 

    Grill Prep
    Set the grill on an even surface and away from overhanging branches or building parts (like porch roofs and soffits).  You and the grill should be several feet from exterior walls or high fences.

    The best time to clean a grill is when it is piping hot.  The heat will assist you in removing debris.  If your grill has been in storage, give it a little extra attention before firing it up. Dust off the casing and legs and, if needed, wash with mild dish washing soap and water using non-abrasive tools.  Check the soot catcher on charcoal grills to be sure it is empty and clear.  Scrape out any soot and debris in the belly and hose the whole thing off, removing all suds.  Let dry. 

    Gas grills using propane tanks should get a safety check.  Follow the instructions for cleaning, maintenance and hooking up tanks. Most things around a grill go wrong after a period of disuse or after refilling and reattaching the grill's gas container.  The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) began releasing safety tips for grills as early as 1997. Check http://tiny.cc/grillsafety for their advice, particularly on checking hoses and tubing for wear and blockages. 

    When you are ready to clean the grill rack and cook, heat the grill and cover it to heat the grate.    Turn on gas grills, preheat and close the cover.   For charcoal grills, place the grill over hot coals and close the cover briefly to heat the grate.  Scrub the grill with a stiff wire brush once it is hot.

    Some back yard cooks like to follow up with a small amount of vegetable oil on a paper towel administered carefully with tongs.  Too much oil will cause flare-ups but a small amount will prevent sticking of more delicate foods like fish and vegetables.  Your choice.   

    Firing It Up
    Charcoal Grills
    If you are a fan of charcoal grills like us, invest in a chimney starter.  They are inexpensive (under $15) and eco-friendly.  They eliminate the need for lighter fluid to ignite the coals and the decidedly unappetizing eau d’lighter fluid on your cooked food.

    To use a charcoal starter, you will need about 3 half-sheets of newspaper and a long-necked lighter or long match.  Place the newspaper in the bottom section of the chimney.  Place the chimney right side up on grill grate and fill the large cavity with charcoal.  Light the paper with the lighter.  The flaming newspaper will light the charcoal and the cylinder will quickly ready the charcoals, in about 15 minutes.  When the coals have developed a ashen exterior pour the glowing coals into the grill and place grill rack on top.

    Control in charcoal grilling comes from the placement of the coals, the distance the grill rack sits from the coals and the amount of time the coals have been ready.   Although there are no hard and fast settings, seasoned grillers learn that coals 10-15 hot are at about medium heat and piling coals to one or either side of the grill allows for a range of temperatures from direct or indirect heat.  It is easy to get a feel for it and, for purists, half the fun of grilling. 

    Gas Grills
    Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for preheating and grilling.  When cooking with gas grills, you have great control.  Cook your chicken on a low setting for the initial cooking and when the meat has reached the proper temperature,  finish the chicken on a higher setting to crisp the skin more or continue on low to baste with sauces. 

    Prep the Food Safely
    Marinades
    Treat marinades like raw meat, that is, separate from other foods.  It is very important to prevent cross contamination with  other foods both cooked and raw.  Once you have used a marinade,  throw away any excess.  If you would like to use part of the marinade to baste the meat while it is cooking, set aside a portion before it comes in contact with raw meat or double the recipe and keep the second half separate for basting.  

    Basting Rules
    Sugars in sauces cause chicken skin to char and burn. To prevent this and still attain a crisp skin, brush on the sauce after the meat has been turned once so the sauce can cook and adhere to the top of the meat.  After brushing sauce on the second side, place the piece off direct flames or over dying coals.  The sauce will thicken and cook onto the meat but will not burn.

    How to Grill Chicken
    Cook chicken on medium to medium-low heat.  Be patient and you will have beautiful bronzed poultry that is tender, juicy and most important, cooked thoroughly.  

    Place chicken bone side down and let cook 12-15 minutes.  Larger pieces will take longer, smaller ones like wings will be ready sooner.  You can accommodate the differences in size by placing the larger pieces over the hotter sections of the grill.  Turn the chicken and cook another 10-12 minutes.  Check your each piece with a meat thermometer.  

    When is it done? 
    The USDA says chicken is cooked when the internal temperature reaches 180˚F.  Many chefs look for 165˚F. If you are considering the lower temperature,  consider who you are serving.  The very young, elderly and those that have been sick are most susceptible to food borne illnesses. The internal temperature will continue to rise when the meat is off the grill so you can remove it when you are a few degrees short of goal and still retain a juicy interior. 

    A Little Rest
    Your dinner has been dancing on a bed of hot coals so give it a chance to rest.  You’ll be glad you did.  The internal temperature will even off, juices will be re-absorbed and it will give you time to collect everyone and everything else together for serving.  To keep chicken crisp while it rests, use a large platter so you don’t need to pile the pieces up and inadvertently steam the skin.  Give yourself at least 10-15 minutes.  If the wait is longer that 15 minutes,  cover the chicken lightly with tin foil. 


    Today’s Recipes
    All the marinades make enough for a whole, cut-up chicken or 4-6 pieces of either dark or light meat. 


    Tandoori Inspired Grilled Chicken
    No Tandoor oven? No problem.  Marinate this skinned chicken dish in tenderizing yogurt and spices overnight and put it on the grill for a taste of India that will beat the spice blues.  The chicken takes on the color of the spices, especially the yellow hue of turmeric.  Tandoori chicken is not a spicy dish and the cayenne can be eliminated if yours is not a heat seeking group.

    Ingredients
    6 oz plain yogurt
    juice of 1 lemon
    1 tablespoon vegetable oil
    1 tablespoon freshly grated ginger (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
    1 teaspoon coriander
    1 teaspoon salt
    1/2 teaspoon cumin
    1/2 teaspoon turmeric
    1/4 teaspoon cayenne
    1/4 teaspoon black pepper
    1-2 cloves garlic, minced

    Method
    1. Skin chicken parts and with a sharp knife, make a few slits in the muscle of each piece.   Place chicken in a large bowl.  
    2. In a smaller bowl,  mix the yogurt with remaining ingredients.  Pour yogurt mixture over chicken and marinate overnight or at least 10 hours.  Turn chicken every few hours to coat completely. 
    3. When ready to cook, remove chicken from yogurt marinade and place on a medium- low fire.  Cook chicken 30-40 minutes turning once until cooked through.   
    Serve Tandoori chicken with Basmati  rice, a selection of chutneys and Indian breads.  Make a simple vegetable curry of cauliflower, green beans and chick peas by tossing the cooked vegetables with a curry spice blend and a little coconut milk or Greek yogurt. This side astes good hot or at room temperature. (Pack leftovers in a pita packet with any extra chicken the next day.)

    American Barbecue Chicken
    Orange and lime gives this tomato-based sauce a citrus note that is addictive.  This recipe was adapted from a barbecue sauce for spare ribs in the 1963 edition of The Good Housekeeping Cookbook.  The key to barbecued chicken is to hold off on basting it with sauce until the chicken is almost done.  This yields tender, juicy chicken with a cooked on glaze and a bit of crispness instead of a charred and thick exterior casing a dry bird. 

    Ingredients
    1/2 cup ketchup
    1/2 cup molasses
    1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
    zest  and juice of 1/2 orange
    zest and juice of 1/2 lime
    1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
    pinch ground clove
    1/4 teaspoon salt
    1/4/ teaspoon pepper
    1/4-1/2 teaspoon hot pepper flakes

    1. Add all ingredients to a medium saucepan and cook over medium heat until bubbling.  Lower  heat and simmer 5 minutes, stirring occasionally until sauce thickens a bit and takes on a glossy sheen. Use immediately or cool, cover and refrigerate.  Use within 3 days. 
    2. If you are marinating chicken, try buttermilk and some salt and pepper or plain milk with  lemon juice (1 tablespoon for every cup of milk).  Chicken can float around in a buttermilk marinade for up to 24 hours.  When ready to cook , remove chicken from marinade and pat dry.  Discard marinade. 
    3. Grill chicken according to directions above.  After turning chicken over, start basting with sauce. Keep on eye on the flames once the second side is basted.  Keep chicken pieces away from direct flames or over medium-low coals just long enough to form the coating/crust you like. Basted chicken will cook very nicely over indirect heat if you are the patient type. 
    Serve American Barbecue Chicken with cole-slaw, potato salad and steamed corn on the cob. Brownies, anyone?

    Boyfriend Chicken
    This was my husband’s go to marinade when we met.  It is easy but impressive.  It tastes good with pork chops too, especially with the addition of some freshly grated ginger. 

    Ingredients
    1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
    2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce
    1/4 cup cold water

    Method
    1. Mix the ingredients in a gallon sized zip lock bag.  Place chicken pieces in marinade and seal bag.  Place bag of chicken in a shallow bowl or pie plate and refrigerate 2 hours or overnight.  Turn bag over after a few hours to evenly distribute marinade. 
    2. When ready to cook, remove chicken pieces and discard marinade.  Grill as directed above.

    Boyfriend Chicken deserves some colorful vegetables on the side and a fabulous salad.  Try roasted or grilled asparagus, zucchini or yellow squash.  Sweet summer tomatoes and fresh mozzarella over lightly dressed greens and torn basil completes the table. A perfect at-home date for two or anniversary dinner with family years later....

    Sunday, May 16, 2010

    Spinach on the Side

    As I child, we only ate spinach at major holidays and always as a soufflé.  It was glamorous but sadly too rich for my young tummy.  Happily, my great Aunt Emma took pity upon me and quietly scooped my serving over to her plate when my parents weren’t looking, less a tiny teaspoon sampled under duress.  It was many years before I heard about this thing called fresh spinach. 

    These days spinach is served up at almost every meal around here.  Wedges of spanikopa pie make a quick breakfast on the run or lunch with a salad.  A serving of freshly steamed spinach with a teaspoon of mayonnaise and a pinch of tarragon makes a nutritious nest for a poached egg.  And creamed spinach and spinach soufflé are now welcomed at dinnertime and holidays, especially if I’m enjoying a steak house dinner. 

    In warmer weather, a steak needs a lighter side than traditional creamed spinach.  Thanks to the lessons of Italian cooks, simple steamed or sautéed spinach with garlic and olive oil is the most common way many of us eat spinach these days. Recently I had some leftover roasted tomatoes and created this variation that is a winner with outdoor celebrations featuring grilled meats and fish.  It tastes good hot or at room temperature allowing you to prepare it in advance.  Drizzle on a little extra virgin olive oil  when serving to amp up the greens.

    Spinach and Grape Tomatoes
    Serves 4

    Ingredients
    1 cup grape tomatoes (or cherry tomatoes)
    1 tablespoon olive oil
    1 clove garlic, smashed and peeled
    2 pounds fresh spinach (or 4 8-oz bags fresh)

    Method
    • Preheat oven to 450˚F. 
    • Wash tomatoes and toss with olive oil and garlic. Place in a small roasting pan and roast until tomatoes are cooked through but still hold there shape, about 12-15 minutes.  Set tomatoes aside. 
    • If you are using fully matured spinach rather than baby spinach, remove stems before steaming. To pull woody stems from tender mature spinach leaves, grasp a leaf folded lengthwise in one hand and rip stem away with the other.  
    • Steam spinach in a covered skillet in 1-2 tablespoons water.  Stop cooking as soon as spinach wilts.  
    • Drain and toss with roasted tomatoes.  Season with salt and pepper to taste. 

    Sunday, May 9, 2010

    A New Twist for Limes

    Limes are naturals in salsas, guacamole, key lime pies and drinks like gin and tonic and just about anything made with tequila.  It’s a key agent in ceviche and a great addition to marinades.  You knew about all of these.  Here are three more places to squeeze a lime for those of us who love the bright taste and sunny look of limes.

    Chicken
    Lime’s tart taste can cut your craving for salt and kick up flavor the way salt can.  If you are cutting back on sodium, squeeze lime on grilled chicken and send the salt shaker to the other end of the dining table.

    Corn
    Lime is also corn-friendly.  Squeeze it on unadorned corn or make a lime-spiked mayonnaise with a shake of cayenne.  Try corn salad dressed with olive oil, lime juice and cracked black pepper.

    Cantaloupe
    Lime turns cantaloupe into a treat with tropical overtones. Drizzle lime juice over your next wedge of cantaloupe to bring up some of the fruit’s more subtle flavors.  With or without a thin slice of prosciutto, this melon is special. 

    Pure
    Please use the real thing for really true flavor.  A little goes a long way.  It’s not hard to cut open a lime rather than twist off a bottle cap and limes will keep well.  After all the British Navy sailed long distances during the 19th century with them to provide the crew with critical vitamin C, a scurvy preventative . 

    Some limes can be less juicy than others and significantly less juicy than lemons.  Here’s the best way to get the most juice possible: roll your lime on a counter pressing down firmly to break down the pulp inside the lime before slicing.  Use a reamer to help extract the juice.  A reamer looks like a decorative wooden pine cone with a handle.  When you twist it into a lime half more pulp breaks apart and the juice runs down the cone’s rivulets. I lost my reamer ages ago and use a fork to help me squeeze out juice.  It is a pretty good substitute.  Some people recommend heating limes and lemons in the microwave on high for 10 seconds to help with juicing.  I haven’t blown up a citrus fruit yet but I expect someone has.  Prick your lime to allow expansion before your first microwave attempt and keep an eye on it.   

    Post Script
    Lime zest is cut from the thin green layer on the outside of the lime and holds flavorful oils.  A zester is an easy tool to use and a paring knife can also slice away the outer green peel.  Microplaners also make short work of zesting.  Just be sure to only  scrape away the green part and not the bitter white pith.  Zest can be added to fruit salads, baked goods and marinades for an extra punch of lime flavor.  Zest the lime before cutting into it for the best leverage and be sure to scrub the outside of the lime lightly to remove any debris or dirt.  Use a vegetable brush or rub with a little salt and rinse.