On Trend?

At the beginning of the year I made several trend predictions and promised updates.  I already have an update and not a happy one from a "pure foods" perspective.

Stonyfield's recent decision to discontinue its iconic line of Cream Top Yogurt flags the hard facts of life for brands and groceries trying to determine whether we really want good food or just good-sounding food.  While my prediction that groceries will be offering more artisanal foods holds, old standbys are at risk of leaving us including Stonyfield's very first product, Cream Top yogurt.

Their iconic yogurt with cream on top and lower fat, real yogurt below has been replaced by a "creamier" homogenized version that they call "stirred in," not wanting to stir up alarm with the word homogenized.

While I have no personal complaint against homogenization, it is a problem for many lactose-sensitive eaters who can digest non-homogenized dairy more easily. For myself and my family, I am sad to see a great example of pure foods that was so delicious leave store shelves in favor of a new yogurt blend that tastes much like every other one in the dairy case.  To stay current with America's taste for a creamier mouth-feel in many ready-to-eat foods,  Stonyfield felt they needed to change their base brand to improve sales.

After a week of complaints, Stonyfield posted an open letter on facebook under a newly created tab, Cream Top.  It reads in part," ... we owe our success to loyal fans...." then goes on to discuss the marketing decision to look away from those early days of sales support and discontinue the Cream Top line.  It also asks for feedback to help them monitor their decision.  (See full letter here.  Also see Stonyfield's wall under Stonyfield + others for consumer comments on the issue.)
 
 One commenter, to whom I am related (full disclosure),  notes:

Stonyfield is a for-profit company and that means is it market driven. When a product line trends lower in sales it is discontinued in favor of other products that will provide higher profits. It is not important to Stonyfield that the Cream Top Yogurt line is as quintessential as all the "organic" efforts they... hold so dear, for now. 

 It is arguable that all those efforts actually made the "COT" product line more susceptible to discontinuance due to their higher costs, and thus, lower profit margins. So, yes organics are great by themselves but they make companies have to be stricter on the shelves. Since American tastes are trending towards sweeter, already flavored, homogenized, thicker, individually packaged pablum that is exactly what you will see from Stonyfield. Heck, it probably won't be long before they put out a French-Fried flavored, thicker, creamier yogurt-like substance that you eat out of a bag! Don't get any ideas Stonyfield :-)   

The way I read the official "dear John" letter from Eric is: Thanks for starting and keeping our business going in hard times, but you are not numerous enough now to take up our shelf space so your services are no longer needed.

Stonyfield, I posit: There is nothing more "Organic" than a 32 oz container of plain, non-Homogenized yogurt that the consumer can flavor or sweeten or bake or mix to taste.

Smaller producers may fill gaps left by larger ones.  In fact, I have been hearing from readers confirming the increasing availability of organic and artisinal food of all kinds, including dairy.  One group in Vermont, Graze (www.grazedelivered.com), has used its market knowledge to create a New England-wide delivery system of organic and artisinal meat, dairy, baked goods and vegetables and will even deliver cooked meals to your ski house on weekends and holidays.  It's a great opportunity for local farmers but leaves me wondering if this food trend is, as often suspected, limited to those of higher means.  

When large suppliers like Stonyfield are moved by consumer demand for creamier, thicker, cheaper to produce yogurt and abandon widely available pure products, we have only ourselves to blame. Stonyfield has to listen to sales to survive and grow.  What will Stonyfield and other brands conclude from our marketplace actions next?

Baked Oatmeal Sqaures

This is the pure on-the-go oatmeal breakfast I have been dreaming of for many years.  Oatmeal muffins, cookies and breakfast bars are good but have too many other ingredients to really qualify as a breakfast that can kick off a morning.  Baked oatmeal squares taste like oatmeal in the bowl, and now, in your hand.

I made the first batch plain and the second with dried fruit and nuts (cherries and almonds).  Both were so tasty, not too sweet and pleasantly moist.  The squares and wedges can be cut and eaten right out of the oven, topped with some yogurt and sliced fruit, or cooled and then cut into portions for the road.  Keep individually wrapped portions refrigerated (or frozen) then put them in your bag on the way out the door.  They are really good room temperature and even better warmed in the microwave when you get to work. 

There are as many flavor variations as you can think of but one thing is not negotiable.  The oats have to soak over night (or eight hours) so you have to plan ahead to enjoy these.  The key to the recipe’s moisture and texture is that the oats are soft and have absorbed the liquid before the batter goes in the oven. On the bright side, it took me less than five minutes to mix the ingredients together last night for this morning’s treat.  In fact I did it during a commercial break.  This morning, while the oven heated to 350˚F, I poured the batter into an oil-sprayed metal pie plate and then baked it for thirty minutes. 

Try this simple version first.  If you like it you can double the recipe and have baked oatmeal squares all week long.  You can also experiment with your favorite flavors.  I’ve listed a few suggestions. 

Baked Oatmeal Squares
Makes 4 large squares or wedges

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups rolled oats (not instant)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 egg (or 2 egg whites)
3/4 cup milk or buttermilk (go for the buttermilk if you have it)
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

Method

1. Combine all ingredients together in the vessel you’ll be soaking it in.  A bowl covered with plastic wrap, a 1-quart plastic food storage container, etc.  
2. Place covered container in refrigerator and let it sit at least 8 hours.  Note: Oats absorb liquid best in more acidic environments.  If you think you’ll remember, you can wait to add the baking powder and salt after soaking the rest of the ingredients to keep the ph-level acidic.  
3. When ready to cook, preheat oven to 350˚F.  Spray an 8” pie plate or baking pan with oil.  
4. If you are adding fruit, nuts or other goodies, stir them into the batter at this stage.  (If you haven’t added the baking powder and salt yet, do this now.)  
5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.  I like to sprinkle on a little cinnamon sugar just before it goes in the oven for a little brûlée effect.   
6. Bake oatmeal at 350˚F for 30 minutes, until oatmeal is firm in the center.  Remove from oven and enjoy. 

Mix-Ins:
1/4 cup dried cherries and 2 tablespoons slivered almonds
1 small apple or pear, chopped in small pieces
1/4 cup blueberries or sliced strawberries
1/4 cup fruit jam (fig, raspberry, apricot, etc) or nut butter swirled into batter
Replace half the brown sugar with 1 tablespoon maple syrup
1/4 cup raisins and chopped peanuts
1/2 cup total of chopped dried fruit—try apricots, cranberries, mango, orange peel
1/4 cup mini chocolate chips (it will still have less sugar than a pop tart)
1/2 sliced banana

Can’t wait until tomorrow morning.  Wish I had bananas in the house.

Acknowledgments:
I started with the recipe for baked oatmeal from Pattycake (http://pattycake.ca/node/382) who in turn adapted it from Macheesemo (http://www.macheesmo.com/2010/06/baked-oatmeal/).  Quaker Oats has a version using instant rolled oats that doesn’t require soaking but it doesn’t travel.  I’ll be working on a version using ground oats (a Scottish version of pinhead oats) that will likely take much more soaking time but will be extraordinary.

Freezer Fish Chowders

Far away from the seashore or in the middle of a snowy winter that frosts over the sea and brings fisherman to shore, it’s nice to know that a warming seafood meal can be created quickly with pure ingredients from you freezer and pantry. The first recipe for fish chowder is made with any firm fish like cod, flounder or orange roughy.  The second is a recipe for shellfish bisque that you can make with frozen shrimp.  Neither of these takes as long as meat based stocks and soups so they are viable weeknight meals. 

Make the bisque if you usually have frozen shrimp, V-8 or tomato juice and canned clam juice on hand.  (Brandy and water can stand in for clam juice in a pinch) If you keep potatoes, frozen fish, potatoes and chicken or clam juice in the house, you can make the chowder. 

Frozen Fish Chowder
Serves 4

Ingredients
4 six-ounce frozen fish steaks or filets (cod, orange roughy, flounder, even salmon)
1 large onion
4 medium sized potatoes
1-2 celery stalks
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon flour
14 ounces clam juice, chicken broth or water or a combination. 
6 ounces milk
optional:
1 cup frozen corn or other frozen vegetable (spinach is good)
1/4 cup heavy cream

Method

1. Thaw fish while you are preparing the chowder base.  Lay filets or steaks out side by side.  If wrapped in plastic, fish may be placed in a shallow bath of tepid water to thaw quickly.  
2. Peel and slice onion no wider than 1/4 inch thick.  Peal and thinly slice or dice potatoes. Finely chop celery.  
3. Heat olive oil in a 3-quart heavy bottomed pot over a medium heat and lightly sauté onion.  When onions begin to sweat (sending off a bit of steam) add the potatoes and celery.  Stir to coat potatoes and celery in oil. 
4. Sprinkle flour over vegetables.  Continue to cook a minute longer, stirring to prevent potatoes from sticking.  
5. Add juice or broth. If adding water instead, add a little salt at this stage. Scrape up any potato or flour from the bottom of the pan and mix it into the broth. Bring mixture to a boil then reduce heat and cook on low for 15 minutes, until potatoes are quite soft.  
6. While soup cooks, cut fish into bite-sized pieces.  
7. Once potatoes are cooked, add milk to soup.  Soup may be partially pureed with an immersion blender at this stage to thicken it.  You can also use a potato masher to break down some of the potatoes and thicken the soup leaving nice chunks.  
8. If using any frozen vegetables, like corn, add at this stage.  Cream can be added at this stage also.  Cook until soup is very hot and frozen vegetables are heated through, about two-three minutes longer on medium-low heat.  
9. Lower heat and stir in fish.  Cover and let fish cook gently in hot soup, about 4-5 minutes depending on size of fish pieces.  Serve soup hot garnished with fresh parsley or dried chives. 

This soup reheats well on a low flame.  If storing for more than one day, freeze in individual servings. 

Frozen Shrimp Bisque
Serves 3

The key to a bisque is to “cook” the shells before placing them in the stock water. This imparts a deeper crustacean flavor.  It is reported that this is how bisque got its name, not as is often thought, from the Bay of Biscay.  (In French, “bis cuites” refers to twice-cooked, like a biscuit or biscotti.) This is a smooth, creamy soup but it does not always require cream for its smooth and silky consistency. Here I use cooked, pureed rice and some cornstarch to thicken the broth. Though we think of bisques as elegant and expensive soups, if you are using only the shells, as older recipes direct, you are making the most of your food supplies to make an inexpensive meal.  Cooks stretched their food budgets by getting every bit of flavor from all parts of their seafood then garnishing with a bit of seafood rather than stocking the pot full of expensive shellfish.  In fact, the shells were often crushed to extract as much flavor as possible from them before straining.  This recipe also works really well with leftover lobster shells, crab and crayfish. 

Ingredients
2 cups shrimp shells plus 1/3 pound shelled thawed shrimp or 1 pound frozen shrimp, peeled and thawed
1 tablespoon olive oil and/or butter
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 carrot , chopped or grated
1 small onion, chopped or grated
5.5 ounce can low sodium V-8 or tomato juice
1-2 cups water
1 cup clam juice or vegetable broth
Salt and black pepper
cooked rice, cornstarch as thickeners
garnishes: heavy cream, hot pepper paste or crushed red pepper, lemon, sherry

Special equipment: cheese cloth or a very fine strainer

Note: Instead of discarding shrimp shells from frozen shrimp, place them in a Ziploc bag and add to them until you have enough for a chowder.  You can also use one pound of frozen shrimp, peeled and thawed for this recipe. 

Method

1. Heat oil/butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet.  Add shrimp shells and sauté until shells turn pink and begin to brown.  
2. Add vegetables and sauté a few minutes, until lightly browned.  
3. Transfer shells and vegetables to a stockpot.  Add juice and enough water to cover shells and vegetables.  If using smaller shells, use your judgment here and add more water or broth.  
4. Bring stock to a boil them lower heat, cover and simmer 15-20 minutes. 
5. Line a strainer with a double layer of cheesecloth and strain soup.  
6. Taste and add seasonings as required.  Add more broth, clam juice or water as needed.  
7. Thicken soup with either or both of the following methods.  Add 1/2-1 cup cooked rice and puree.  Add 1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 2 ounces cold water.  Stir cornstarch slurry into soup and cook on a low simmer for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.  
8. To serve, add raw shrimp or other shellfish to hot soup and heat on low until seafood is cooked through. 

Bonus: Bisque makes a great sauce base for seafood pasta.  In a large skillet combine a cup of bisque with a bit of cream, sherry and a squeeze of lemon.  Then add cooked pasta, cooked shellfish and steamed vegetables like asparagus, broccoli or even peas. Other nice additions are chopped tomato, parsley and/or basil.  Top with grated Parmesan cheese.

2011 Food Predictions

More natural flavors in packaged foods are one of the 2011 trend predictions.

At the risk of making a fool of myself, here are a few trends I think we'll be noticing in the coming year.  I'll keep track of how I do and report back a year from now.

Watch for a more active FDA in the food zone. 
In 2010 food companies received an increase in letters from the FDA warning them about misleading labels and unsubstantiated health claims.  The FDA is also taking a more forceful stance against food supplement companies making extraordinary claims. Diet, bodybuilding and sexual enhancement claims are the most common categories found to use illegal ingredients.  At the same time, fewer inspectors have meant fewer food processing plant inspections and several alarming outbreaks of food poisoning resulted.  Expect to hear more in the coming year about the safety of our food supply and see the FDA take a closer look at food and supplement claims.  

Better availability of American-made artisanal foods.
With NYC icon Murray's Cheese Shop now set up at Kroger's and other large grocery chains upping their game at the cheese counter there is more opportunity for us to get local, regional and domestic specialty cheeses as well as charcuterie items. Farmers markets will continue to be a great supplier too.  Groceries will continue to experiment with locally grown and organic produce.  What they decide about supplying these foods long term will be up to us and how we support the trend with our grocery dollars.

“Nose to Tail” lip service
If you are not already a fan of sweetbreads, scrapple, country pates and beef and kidney pies, I doubt the new fad of using the "whole hog" will transform your tastes.  I do think that we may all find ourselves more aware of what happens to the other parts of the bird, steer, lamb and pig that are not on our tables and gain a keener understanding of how meat pricing and inventory management works. 

Eating out again
As the work force returns in larger numbers, it will mean a return to dining out, especially at casual restaurants and at quick serve restaurants (known outside the business as fast food) that offer good deals on enticing sweet-savory breakfast items.  While our grocery stores try to meet our perceived interest in local and natural foods, will we show the same consumer behavior at restaurants or will another side of our consumer personality prevail?

More food corporations will add or replace ingredients with ones that are "natural." 
Reward the trend but remember that adding whole grains (natural or not) to a food that lists various forms of sugar as its top ingredients is not really an improvement.  Junk food with a halo is still junk food.  Look for natural ingredients in more of the good foods you eat and be thankful that your sour cream & onion chips will have fewer artificial flavors and preservatives. And remember, foods like cottonseed oil in your "natural" potato chips may still be too high in saturated fat and too low in monounsaturated fats.

Spanish, Portuguese and Moroccan foods
I foresee growing access and familiarity with Mediterranean foods from the western side of the salty sea.  We already shop for manchego cheese from Spain, eat falafel from carts and packaged mixes and are mastering Portuguese salt cod dishes without even realizing their proximity both to each other and, more recently, to us.

Vegan recipes abound.  Likewise Gluten-free foods.
All good especially as it answers the needs of many who suffer from serious food allergies and celiac disease (which requires a wheat free diet).  With the improvement in labeling, some labels will look silly.  Try to contain your mirth when you see steamed broccoli labeled vegan (no eggs or dairy, duh) that is also gluten free (no wheat).  On the other hand, with all the extras in packaged foods, perhaps we should be sure our steamed broccoli is just that.

School lunches (and breakfasts) will lose out as many local budget-crunched school boards juggle union pensions, new technology needs and core programs vying for funds.  Government food programs still get in their own way by trying to serve both the large corporate farms and food industry and the nutritional needs of our nation's little ones.  Schools that are trying student-gardens may see the most benefit for the least investment.

Continued perplexity about our nation's obesity rates among many of the food elite.
Educated, slim, active foodies are in the dark about why most of our population can't just eat like them.  Until we look at this issue with compassion, good statistical information and a willingness do more than throw up our hands, we will continue to be flummoxed.  Making good meals fast and cheap is not easy without some basic training in food selection, preparation and storage for home, office and school use.  Many people get about half hour for lunch and are far from any nutritious sources.  If you are an expert and wondering about the food crisis in this country, consider volunteering to teach your cooking skills via organizations like "Share our Strength."  You may be surprised at what you learn about the realities of "food insecure homes" in your area.

Spanish Brunch

Menus inspired by Spanish tapas are ideal for breakfast and brunch and you probably already know tapas make great cocktail party fare.  What I like about a Spanish brunch is that most of it can be prepared ahead, like Italian antipasti, so host and guests can enjoy a leisurely morning.  This mix and match menu works well for vegetarian and meat-eating guests as well as picky younger eaters.  Here’s the menu:

Spanish Tortilla 

(egg-based torte with potatoes and parsley)
Spanish cheese platter with Jamon Serrano and Fresh & Dried Fruits
Meson Mushrooms
Pan Tomat
Patatas Bravas (fiery potatoes)
Assorted Pastries

Cava or Sangria

Orange Juice, Coffee, Tea, Hot Chocolate

Spanish Tortilla
Spanish tortilla, closely related to the frittata, is the brunch centerpiece.  Infused with potatoes, onion, parsley and sometimes  chorizo sausage,  it can be made a day ahead.  If you are not confident making one yourself, you can easily make it as a frittata by making a big egg scramble that is finished in the oven instead of flipped pan to pan in the old style to finish it.  Or if you have a Spanish restaurant in town, order one or two and reheat them.  (You can even order one from LaTienda.com.) 


Tortilla tastes good hot but is very at home room temperature or just warmed through.  Slice the round torte the classic way—in bite-sized squares and serve with toothpicks or slice into wedges like a quiche or pie. 

Another way to get the flavors of Spanish tortilla is to bake mini crustless quiches in large muffin cups or 1/2 cup ramekins.  For each mini-tortilla  combine 1 egg, 1/4 cup diced boiled potatoes, two tablespoons chopped onion sautéd in olive oil and a teaspoon of chopped fresh parsley.  Add a bit of salt and pepper and pour into well-oiled muffin cups.  Bake in a 325˚F oven for 15 minutes until egg is cooked through (not jiggly as in quiche).  Don’t skimp on the oil in the muffin cup since it is part of the tortillas’ distinctive flavor and will allow the mini-tortilla to slip out easily. 

If you have unsalted potato chips in the house, follow famed Spanish chef Ferran Adrià's method (popularized here by Chef Jose Andres) and replace the cooked potatoes with lightly crushed chips.  Let the mixture sit 10 minutes before baking to allow the eggs to soften the potato chips.   Ever since I tried this method, it is my go to tortilla ingredient.  

Spanish Cheese Platter
A platter of ham and cheese is an easy accompaniment now that Spain’s Jamon Serrano (dried ham) and Manchego cheese are widely available.  Chorizo sausage is also a good fit on a platter if not used in the tortilla.  Be sure to get the cured type that requires no cooking.  Set out small bowls of olives and Marcona almonds and garnish the platter with dried or fresh figs.  Fresh sliced cantaloupe would not be out of place here also.

Meson Mushrooms
I learned to make grilled mushrooms the Spanish way by watching the grill master at a meson (tapas house) beneath the Plaza Mayor in Madrid.  He would not give out the recipe but I think I got the gist of it pretty well via many enjoyable repeat visits.  Meson mushrooms are simply grilled mushroom caps with a chunk of cured chorizo in the center cavity.   When they come off the grill, finish them with a good squeeze of lemon juice and fresh parsley.  Don’t skimp on the parsley. And make sure it is fresh not dried. The herb is much loved in Spain and once you taste it in tortilla and meson mushrooms you will appreciate the terrific pop of “green” flavor it brings to more subtle egg and mushroom dishes.   These mushrooms can be prepped ahead and baked instead of grilled in a 400˚F degree oven for 12-15 minutes.  Finish with lemon juice and parsley as with the grilled version.

Pan Tomat
Pan Tomat is a specialty of the Barcelona and the Catalan region of Spain.  Guests can prepare these themselves from a shared plate.  Set out slices of lightly toasted rustic bread, halved fresh garlic cloves and halved small tomatoes.  Guests rub the garlic and tomato over the rough surface of the toast (warm or room temperature) to infuse the bread with a light, fragrant coating of juice and pulp.  Full flavor extra virgin olive oil is drizzled on top.  Be sure to use a Spanish olive oil for a robust olive flavor in these dishes.  You may be lucky enough to have a wide selection in your market but if not, I like Goya extra virgin olive oil for most Spanish dishes.  Pan tomat is Spain’s answer to garlic bread and it goes perfectly with tortilla and platters of ham and cheese.

Patatas Bravas
Of all the items on the menu, this one may show up again at your next Super Bowl party.  These are for every hash brown and steak fry lover in the house.  They get their name from the spicy tomato-based dipping sauce.  Use small new potatoes or larger ones cut in quarters and halves. First boil a batch until just tender.  Drain and toss with olive oil then roast in a hot oven (alongside the mushrooms) turning occasionally until all sides are crisp.  Serve lightly salted with a simple tomato sauce (not marinara) and a  shot of hot sauce.  (If you’d like a sweeter version, mix ketchup with hot sauce.)  Make them as hot as you and your family likes.  The potatoes can also be dipped in a good mayonnaise spiked with sherry vinegar.

Beverages
Any combination of the list below will match the meal:
Cava (Spain’s sparkling wine)
Orange juice
Sangria—white or red
Hot chocolate, coffee, tea

Fruits
Oranges—sliced on a platter
Sliced cantaloupe
Dried fruits

Pastries
Churros are fried tubes of dough rolled in sugar and are sold on street corners in Spanish cities.  They are beginning to be seen here but the pre-packaged ones are not fresh tasting.  An alternative is to pick up fresh donuts.  Cream-filled ones are very Iberian but small donut holes coated in simple cinnamon sugar are also a good (and lighter) choice. 

New Year’s is a nice time to throw an impromptu cocktail party or a brunch.  Or perhaps a leisurely breakfasts with just family.   Happy 2011^

Chocolate Stocking Report

Dark chocolate is very popular in this household.  Our siblings know this and treat us to some truly special ones at this time of year. 

This year we received a stockingful of dark chocolate bars to sample and compare.  It’s every chocoholic’s dream holiday.  We try to restrain ourselves and only sample one or two at a time.  It helps us keep the nuances of flavor clear and our heads from spinning.  So far we have broken into three bars and thought we had a clear favorite.  Today there was a split decision.  As we sample we are contemplating what to cook with the briefcase-sized brick of semi-sweet chocolate sent by another sibling.  Grated semi-sweet chocolate in hot milk makes very nice hot chocolate.  I have several fondue recipes floating around that would put the giant bar to good use.  A neighbor told me that the chocolate cake she recently baked for a crowd required a full two pounds of chocolate.  I think I’m set for any eventuality.  And then there are the profiteroles we made the other day that only require freshly made fudge sauce as a topping. 

I won’t divulge the winner of this year’s dark chocolate competition but I do encourage you to set up a sampling too.  It may be too late for stockings, but New Year’s is around the corner and a tray or table stocked with a variety of chocolates is fun for guests.  Many people like to sip red wine with really dark chocolate.  Others like a snifter of rum or brandy.

Chocolate isn’t the only food that lends itself to party sampling.  Now that craft-level caramels and toffees are popular and abundant, you can create a sampling of salted caramels, chocolate-covered  toffee, dulce de leche cheesecake and butterscotch brownies either homemade or from speacialty stores.  On the savory side, a salsa tasting or cheese sampling is very easy.  Pick a theme to create a focus, like goat cheeses or blues and dig in.  It’s a great way to find a new favorite.

Special thanks to Diana, Jim, Julia, Liam, Chester and Bill.  This blog entry would not have been possible without you.

Holiday Bread Pudding

This is a festive and light holiday dessert that combines several seasonal favorites.   Cinnamon-sugar, almonds and sliced pears nestle into a loaf of eggnog infused bread pudding. We like ours with raisins but dried cranberries or cherries make the season bright too.  Leftovers make a terrific post holiday “French toast.”  Individual slices can be re-heated in the oven or grilled then dusted with extra cinnamon or powdered sugar. 

Bread pudding using an eggnog base makes sense since eggnog is basically a custard—milk, eggs and sugar.  If you have homemade eggnog leftover from a party, this is a good use for it.  You can also use store-bought eggnog.  Since the eggnog is cooked in the dessert, there is no raw egg in this recipe.

At this time of year it is easy to find fruited breads or ones made with eggs like challah, pannetone and paska.  You can use regular cinnamon-raisin bread for this recipe (or even regular bread) but if you have some day old holiday bread, pick that.  This recipe uses about half a loaf of most breads.  

Pear and Cinnamon Eggnog Holiday Bread Pudding
Ingredients
6-8 slices of raisin, paska or challah bread  (4 cups of 1/2 inch cubes)
(1/2 cup raisins if bread does not have raisins already)
12 ounces eggnog
2 eggs
1 ounce rum or brandy (optional)
1/4-1/3 cup sugar*
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
dash salt
1 pear, cored and sliced (peel if thick skinned)
2 tablespoons sliced almonds
1 tablespoon cinnamon sugar

Method

1. Lightly oil a 9x5 loaf pan with canola oil.  
2. Place bread cubes in a wide bowl.  
3. Combine eggnog, eggs, liquor if using, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt in a smaller bowl or 2-cup measuring cup. Whisk with a fork to break up eggs and combine thoroughly.  
4. Pour eggnog mixture over bread cubes and toss lightly to cover all the bread with liquid. Move bread cubes to the prepared pan and press slices of pear into pudding so that slices are 2/3 submerged.  
5. Sprinkle top with almonds and cinnamon sugar.   (Bread pudding may be covered and refrigerated at this point overnight or for several hours.) 
6. Now, preheat oven to 375˚F.  (If you have not stored the bread pudding, waiting while the oven preheats will give the bread cubes time to absorb the liquid.)  
7. When oven is pre-heated, bake bread pudding, uncovered, for 45 minutes.  Test in the center with a skewer for doneness.  Pudding is done when skewer comes out clean but still moist (no uncooked egg mixture on skewer) and pudding pulls away from sides of pan.  Let bread pudding rest about 10 minutes before serving. 

Serve slices warm with a scoop of plain , whole yogurt, whipped cream or ice cream and if desired a teaspoon of maple syrup.  Keep leftovers refrigerated. 

*Eggnog recipes vary.  Some are sweeter than others.  Test your mixture by using the lower amount of sugar and heating a bread cube doused with a few teaspoons of the eggnog mixture.  (Microwave on low for 30-45 seconds or until egg is cooked through).  Taste the cooked egg and bread and adjust for sweetness.

Holiday Whipped Cream

Whipped cream for cakes, pies and other desserts that can hold up to holiday travel and buffets if stabilized with a bit of gelatin.  A touch of gelatin prevents the cream from separating and “weeping” into a puddle, much like the sad look of an aging snowdrift. 

Adding gelatin is an easy step and mostly relies on having some plain gelatin powder in the pantry.  The technique is detailed below and if you don’t have the necessary ingredient, I’ve just discovered that mixing some softened cream cheese into whipped cream has a similar stabilizing effect (and tastes divine with chocolate or pumpkin desserts.  (Good with fruit pie too.)

Your whipped cream will hold up for hours but still needs to be refrigerated since it remains a dairy product. 

Cream Cheese Stabilized Whipped Cream
Makes about 1 cup (recipe may be doubled)

1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 ounce cream cheese, softened

Method

1. Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla in a medium mixing bowl and whip with a balloon-style wire whisk or a hand held mixer until cream is thick and holds a peak. 
2. In a small bowl combine softened cream cheese with a large spoonful of whipped cream.  This will lighten the cream cheese and allow you to fold it into the whipped cream more easily. 
3. Gently fold cream cheese mixture into whipped cream.  Refrigerate until ready to use. 

Activated Gelatin

 Gelatin- Stabilized Whipped Cream
Makes 2 cups
(This is a commercial recipe used by bakeries).

1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
4 teaspoons water
1 cup whipping cream
3 tablespoons granulated sugar (add more to taste, up to 1/4 cup)
1/2 -1 teaspoon vanilla

Method

1. Combine gelatin and cold water in small saucepan and let sit until thickened. 
2. Once gelatin has thickened, place pan over low heat, stirring constantly just until gelatin dissolves. Remove from heat and set aside to cool slightly while you whip the cream.  
3. Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla in a large mixing bowl and whip with a balloon-style wire whisk or a hand held mixer until cream is slightly thickened. 
4. Lower the speed and gradually add gelatin to whipped cream mixture (or fold in gelatin if whipping by hand). 
5. Raise speed and whip at high speed until whipped cream becomes stiff and holds peaks. 

Cakes iced with whipped cream must be kept refrigerated.

Now that you have mastered softening and using gelatin, you may be interested in making you own fruit gelatin and mousse desserts.  Just follow the directions on the box.

Pumpkin Dip

I’ve been playing with variations of pumpkin dip that are savory enough to serve with pita chips, crackers and carrot sticks but also taste good with sliced apples and grapes.   The first version used a traditional sour cream and mayonnaise base and got some subtle sweetness from a home-made pear chutney.  It needed a bit more sophistication to make it to the grown-up table but is a fun way to include a kid-friendly food with the appetizers on Thanksgiving.  The next version added roasted red pepper and was, well, not good.  The last version used fewer ingredients and balanced simple sweet and spicy flavors with the fresh pumpkin taste.  This final recipe can be adjusted for sweeter palettes or fired up for those it like a little heat. It is not very heavy (no eggs or mayo) so won’t ruin any appetites but will keep any growling stomachs quiet before the main meal. 

Pumpkin Dip
Makes a little over 1 cup

Ingredients
1/2 cup pumpkin puree (canned fine)
1/3 cup cottage cheese
2 ounces cream cheese, softened
2 tablespoons apricot fruit spread (or jam)
1 tablespoon sour cream
large pinch dried red pepper flakes (more to taste)

Method

1. Combine all ingredients in a small food processor or blender. The cottage cheese will whip up into a smooth and light dip base for the other ingredients.  If you do not have a small appliance to really whip it, substitute ricotta cheese.
2. Pour into a small bowl.  Cover and chill until needed.  
3. Serve with grapes, sliced apples, carrots, celery, crackers or chips.

Every recipe developer needs an audience.  I give thanks to my tasters who gamely sampled several dips and gave excellent comments and tasting notes.  Enjoy, and feedback welcome.

How to Roast Fruit, Fish and Meat

Roasting is a ridiculously easy cooking technique.  It takes little supervision or fuss.  That makes it perfect at this busy time of year.  And you can cook several items at once. A roasted entrée with sides of roasted vegetables is a great combination.  You can even finish the meal with roasted fruit served with ice cream and a drizzle of chocolate or caramel sauce.

Fruit roasts at a lower temperature than other dinner elements so I roast the fruit first.  I use chef Jeremy Tower’s method.  He roasts halved pears and apples rubbed with a tiny pinch of salt on beds of sugar (about 1/8 inch deep) on a parchment-lined, rimmed cookie sheet.  It takes about an hour at 350˚F.  Fruit is done when it is easily pierced with a sharp knife and the sugar is caramelized.  Slip a spatula under the fruit and set it on a large dish to cool.  Serve sliced fruit for dessert or breakfast with yogurt and granola or put sliced, roasted fruit in a salad with some dried cranberries and blue cheese.  Roasted fruit keeps for several days refrigerated.  It is a good "make ahead" item or a great way to have your oven do double duty when something else is in the oven at 350˚F. 

To roast vegetables, crank the stove to 425˚F and chop a medley of vegetables into bite-sized pieces.  Good combinations are peeled winter squash, potatoes, beets and carrots with a thin coating of olive oil, salt and pepper plus some sprigs of thyme or rosemary.  Or try chopped cauliflower, celery, broccoli, mushrooms and zucchini dressed with olive oil, crushed garlic clove and low-sodium soy sauce.  Place the vegetables on a foil lined metal roasting pan or glass baking dish.  If you’d like the vegetables to steam first, cover with foil for the first 20 minutes then remove the top foil, stir the vegetables and roast for another 20-30 minutes until they are tender and lightly browned. Brussels sprouts rank as our favorite when roasted.  Steam halved sprouts with a bit of water until tender then toss drained sprouts with olive oil, salt and pepper and place on a roasting pan.  Roast for about 15 minutes at 425˚F, turning occasionally.  Don’t discard the little leaves that will inevitably fall off during steaming.  These roast up into little crispy chips that act as an instant garnish to the finished dish.

What to roast alongside your vegetable medleys?  Thick fillets of fish like sea bass, haddock, tuna or salmon would be nice with soy sauce-infused roast vegetables.  Add the fish during the last 10-15 minutes of roasting.  Fish only needs minimal prep.  I like a touch of olive oil or butter with good squeeze of lemon.  On white fish, chopped tomato (fresh or sun-dried in oil) and chopped parsley are good flavor builders.  For the meatier fish, tuna and salmon, a light glaze of low-sodium soy sauce or miso is terrific.  No need to turn fish over during roasting. It is ready when the meat flakes. 

Small or individual cuts of meat like a hot roasting oven. Try pork tenderloin marinated in slurry of a tablespoon of mustard, 1-2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce and 1/2 cup water (pat dry before roasting). Pork tenderloin takes 18-22 minutes at 425˚F.  Test with a meat thermometer for an internal temperature of 160˚F.  Thick cuts of steak can be roasted too.  Sear both sides of seasoned steaks in a skillet with a little oil until nicely browned and then place the (oven-proof) skillet in the oven to finish.  Rare (135-140˚F) takes just 8-10 minutes more for a one and half inch thick steak.  Medium about (150˚F) 12 minutes and well-done (160-165˚F) is ready in 15 minutes.  Remember to let the meat rest before cutting and serving. 

Whole chickens need to roast at lower temperatures but dark chicken parts can stand a higher heat in a roasting pan with a light coat of oil and a little water or broth.  Plan on 20-30 minutes for thighs/leg quarters.  They are ready when the internal temperature reaches 165-170˚F.  Your oven may run hot so start checking at 20 minutes using a meat thermometer.  If the outside is browning too fast, cover loosely with foil.

Roasting is a pure foods method that allows food to taste like itself.  Use a light touch with seasonings to keep the main ingredient’s flavor forward.  And if you oven has room, save yourself some time (and lower your energy bills) by cooking a double batch of vegetables or meat.  Use the vegetables in soup or mixed with grains the next day.  Slice the extra meat for sandwiches and skip the cold cuts for a few days.

Calcium Loading

The New York City Marathon is one of the city’s big fall events.  Runners enjoy an annual pasta meal the night before the big race.  Everyone knows its called “carb-loading” and it helps lean marathoners go the distance without depletion. 

There’s another race that more if us are involved in, the slightly longer marathon to maintain strong bones throughout our lives.  While marathoners are carb-loading, you can be calcium-loading. 

Calcium-loading is a mindful approach to getting calcium at as many meals as possible every day.  The body can only absorb about 500 mg of calcium at a time but the recommended daily amount is between 1,000-1,500 mg for most adults.  Taking a calcium supplement is recommended for many women but keeping up with the dosage can be taxing.  Take it all at once and most is lost to the body.  Try to take a pill at every meal and risk forgetting. Healthy bones are too important to neglect so here is a plan to keep calcium flowing through your system via- surprise- food.  Many low fat options make this possible for all but the lactose intolerant.  Add a few of these to your routine on a consistent basis and your doctor may suggest cutting back on the supplements.

There are choices at every meal and snack opportunity:

Breakfast
Coffee Latte—Get you caffeine with a bigger shot of milk and add 33mg calcium for every ounce (regardless of fat content).   I like strong hot coffee with at least 1/3 of the mug filled with milk.  That’s almost 100 mg* and plenty of caffeine.

Hot Chocolate-- Don't feel guilty about a morning hot cocoa.  If you can make it yourself,  it's likely you'll get out the door with less sugar and fewer calories than a coffeehouse special latte.  Hold the marshmallows.

Orange Juice—you can buy calcium-fortified versions but plain is also a contributor at 52 mg. calcium in 4 ounces.

Egg- one large egg contributes 27 mg calcium to your morning.  (Note: over 90% of the calcium is in the yolk.)

Yogurt- dollop it on oatmeal, which itself contributes about 85 mg of calcium in a cup, eat it plain or in a breakfast parfait with fresh or stewed fruit and a handful of low fat granola.   Eight ounces provides from 300-500 mg of calcium  (check the label on your favorite).

Cream cheese- replace butter with an ounce of regular or low fat cream cheese on toast, muffins, rolls and bagels.  Skimp on that huge bagel by cutting it in half but don’t cheat yourself out of the nutrition-rich cheese.   It also delivers a nice quantity of protein, keeping you satisfied through the morning.  One ounce gives you 25+ mg calcium bonus over butter or jams.  Mix in some cinnamon or a teaspoon of maple syrup for a terrific pancake or whole wheat waffle spread. 

Almond butter is a second option on breakfast breads.  It tastes good with cream cheese or on its own.  One tablespoon gives you 43 mg of calcium.

Smoothies made with low fat milk, plain yogurt and fruits including banana as a thickener make a quick breakfast protein shake.  Here’s a seasonal recipe that tastes like pumpkin pie:

Pumpkin Smoothie:
Serves 1

Ingredients
1/2 cup skim milk
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/3 cup pureed pumpkin (canned is fine
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1 teaspoon maple syrup or honey
1/8 teaspoon vanilla extract

Method

1. Shake all ingredients together in a lidded jar with a few ice cubes or, if doubling the recipe, mix it up in a blender. 

Lunch
Beverage of choice: Milk- your kids are (perhaps) having a glass of milk with their school lunch.  Maybe you should try it too.  Skim milk goes well with a sandwich and adds a big boost of both calcium and protein to your day.

Cheese please- Diet guides often recommend peeling the cheese off a sandwich to lower calories.  Instead, add a slice of your favorite hard cheese and lose a slice of bread to create an open face sandwich.  One ounce of most hard cheese provides between 100-200 mg calcium with only about 100 extra nutrient rich calories. If you can’t get out of your own way on the calories front, enjoy low-calorie versions of cheddar, Swiss and many others.  Melted is really good!

Spinach salad- Toss a cup of baby spinach leaves into your next midday salad and scoop up an extra 30 mg of calcium with just 7 calories. 

And while you’re at the salad bar, reach for chick peas.  You’ll add 43 mg calcium for every half cup (143 calories and 6 grams of protein makes your salad a main dish).

Snacks
Cottage Cheese- Once considered “diet food” only, cottage cheese is still a great side or satisfying snack with melon or pineapple.  Now it’s also used by savvy cooks in dip and baked pasta recipes. 

Cheese, Glorious Cheese- When you snack well it feels satisfying, not hunger-inducing.  An ounce of cheese can get you through to dinner and if you are not serving something with calcium it’s the perfect pre-dinner appetizer or elegant dessert with fruit. At about 100-140 calories per ounce it competes with most energy bars.

Chocolate milk—Com’n, you know you like it.  You can grab one on the go or whip one up at home.  If you are making chocolate milk at home, add a drop of real vanilla extract to enhance the deep chocolate flavor and reduce the amount of sugar needed.

Nuts- One ounce of nuts goes farther than you’d think to curb your appetite and add calcium.   Almonds 75 mg calcium, 1 ounce = 22 nuts, brazilnuts 45 mg calcium, 1 ounce = 6 nuts. Pistachios 31 mg calcium, 1 ounce = 49 nuts, walnuts 28 mg calcium, 1 ounce = 14 nuts.

White beans- two ounces contributes 20 mg calcium.  Mash beans up with a teaspoon of extra virgin olive oil and dried rosemary, salt and pepper to taste.  Celery, carrots, steamed green beans, asparagus, and cauliflower are all calcium-contributing dippers.

Edamame (soy beans) 1 cup =261 mg

Dinner
Many vegetables are a surprising source of calcium.  Half cup of cabbage or bok choy provides 190 mg calcium, broccoli 33 and okra 65 each.  A cup of cooked spinach provides 250 mg calcium and collard greens are at close second at 226 mg per cup serving. 

Go Au Gratin: One ounce of grated Parmesan has 110 calories and a whopping 313 mg calcium.  Cheese and broccoli casserole is suddenly more meaningful.  Try it with a low-fat version of cheddar and a dusting of grated Parmesan.   See below for a fast and freezable broccoli-cheese-rice casserole.  (Even rice has a respectable amount of calcium.)

Cheesy Broccoli Rice Casserole
Serves 4 as a side

Ingredients
2 cups cooked rice
3 cups steamed broccoli
1/2 cup sliced, steamed celery
6 oz vegetable or chicken broth
1 /4 cup lite mayo
2 T sour cream
1/3 cup each grated mozzarella and cheddar
1/2 cup Parmesan, divided

1. Preheat oven to 350˚.  Spray a large casserole dish with spray oil.  
2. In a small bowl, slowly whisk mix broth into mayonnaise and sour cream a bit at a time to form a thick sauce.  
3. Add grated mozzarella and cheddar and half the Parmesan.  Set aside.
4. Place rice and vegetables in prepared casserole.  
5. Pour cheese mixture over and toss to combine.  
6. Cover and bake 20 minutes until heated through.  
7. Remove cover, sprinkle on remaining Parmesan cheese and bake another 5 minutes until cheese is melted.

Fish like salmon and sardines load on the calcium.  Three ounces give your between 300 and 350 mg calcium.  Finish fish with a sprinkling of sesame seeds.  12 grams provides 80 mg, calcium.  (Make your favorite tuna recipe with canned salmon to boost mid-day calcium. A three ounce serving of canned salmon packs 234 mg calcium.

Tofu, made from soy beans, is another way to add calcium.  A 4oz serving provides 150 mg calcium.  See if it’s in your favorite veggie burger. 

Not just for baked potatoes, dairy toppings can garnish steamed or roasted vegetables and thick soups.  Choose Greek yogurt, “yogurt cheese” or sour cream.  (To make yogurt cheese, drain a cup of plain yogurt in cheesecloth or a coffee filter for a few hours or overnight over a shallow bowl.)

Dessert
Puddings made with low fat and skim milk are a lovely treat every once in a while.  Chocolate pudding, vanilla pudding, rice pudding, tapioca can be made from scratch but are also available in low fat versions already prepared.

Yogurt—yes, for dessert.  We use it on fruit crisps instead of ice cream or whipped cream.  Try the plain, whole milk type (some brands have cream on top).  It is the perfect foil to sweet crisps. 

Close out a meal with a cheese and fruit platter or serve as a side to a soup meal.  Add some calcium-rich nuts like almonds to the platter too.  Keep cheese plates simple and portions in control.  An ounce of cheese is usually equivalent to the size of 3 dice.

The Cheese Plate  (calcium in one ounce)
Cheese          Calcium     Calories
Gouda              196           100
Fontina            154           109
Brie                   51             94
Cheddar          202            113
Goat Cheese      83           102
Swiss               221           106
Roquefort        185           103
Feta                 138             74

*Calcium content noted sourced from http://nutritiondata.self.com/

Vitamin D
Your body requires a supply of Vitamin D to help your system absorb and regulate calcium.  There are not many sources (fatty fish, meat and eggs).  One source is sunlight and it only takes 10-15 outdoors daily with face and arms exposed (no sunscreen) to obtain your fill. (A daily walk outside is another important bone strengthener.) Those who live in colder climates or who cannot be without sunscreen for that length of time can also get Vitamin D via fortified foods.

Apple Chips for Wine Night

It is my turn to bring the appetizers for Wine Night. We’ll be having pizza baked in the outdoor, wood fired oven that my neighbors built.  The wine is from the Finger Lakes region.  Dessert, a surprise. 

With pizza as the main coarse, the appetizer needs to be light.  No bready items and no anti-pasti or cheese that might come too close to imitating the pizza toppings. And, the appetizer needs to compliment the wine. 

It’s fall so roasted nuts and dried fruits come to mind as a nice foil to the dinner.  Guests can nibble and won’t get too full. Dried figs, apricots and dates will boost the flavors of the wines and roasted pecans, peanuts and almonds will balance some of the tannins of younger wines.

Apple chips dusted with herbs that compliment the wine will be the centerpiece of the appetizer spread.  Cinnamon-sugar scented chips are the usual flavor but my mix of dried mint, sage, black pepper and salt with a small amount of sugar will bring out the herbal notes in both the white and red wines being served and adds a sophisticated note to the apple flavor.  This is an easy recipe, but must be started early in the day.

Herbed Apple Chips
Ingredients
4 apples (note recipe can be halved if oven is not large enough for 4 sliced apples)
1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon each dried mint and sage
1/8 teaspoon each salt and black pepper
Juice of 1/2 lemon

Method

1. Arrange racks in oven so that they are evenly spaced.  Check how many sheet pans you can fit on the racks.  One medium sliced apple will fill a large baking sheet. This will determine how many apple chips you can make at one time.  
2. Bring oven to 225˚F while you prepare the apples.  Line the baking sheets with parchment paper, silicone pads or waxed paper sprayed with a bit of vegetable oil.  
3. Slice apples 1/8” inch or less thick.  A mandolin or slide-slicer will make this easy.  
4. In a wide bowl toss sliced apples with lemon juice, sugar, herbs, salt and pepper.  
5. Lay apple slices on prepared baking sheets as close together as possible without overlapping.
6. Bake 20 minutes, then using a spatula carefully flip apples over.  Continue to bake at 225˚F for a total of 1 1/2- 2 hours, turning every 15-20 minutes until apples begin to brown and are quite dry.  (Apple chips should be crisp, not chewy.)
7. As chips are ready, remove them from the baking sheets and place on a cool baking sheet or board to cool completely.  Store in an airtight container.  You may recrisp these apple chips in a low oven, 15 minutes.