Winter's Summer Break

It’s still freezing and the wind has been blowing hard.  Many of us just need a summer moment away from the cold winter sun.  I’m proposing grilled burgers for dinner.  The grill has not blown away in recent storms so we can duck on and off the porch to get our charcoal chimney starter going. If your porch is too bitterly cold and blustery to brave, burgers can be flipped on a grill or iron skillet under the more gentle winds of a stove top fan.

A mid winter cook out deserves some really fresh flavors.  Most can be purchased pre-made but if your family has tired of arts and crafts, snow forts and snow angels, invite them inside to help prepare the sides and imagine it’s summer for an afternoon.  Some easy dishes that you’d normally pull out of a package or freezer are pickles, cole slaw and steak fries.  For the truly adventurous, you can even create your own “house” ketchup.  These are fun “projects” that will give your (younger and older) children a chance to see how easy real food is to make and what pure ingredients go into their summer favorites.  These recipes can all be made in the morning or early afternoon and enjoyed that evening.

One Hour Dill Pickle Spears
Select a marinating container that will cover the cucumber spears so that they are submerged while marinating.  Test containers by placing spears in the container and filling with 1 1/2 cups plain water.  Kirby cucumbers are the little ones (about 4-5 inches long and un-waxed.  If you cannot find Kirby’s substitute one English cucumber and cut into thirds and then into spears.  Do not use waxed cucumbers. 

Ingredients
4 Kirby cucumbers, unpeeled
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 teaspoon while coriander seed
1/2 teaspoon mustard seed (yellow or brown)
1/2 teaspoon fennel seed
2 tablespoons Kosher salt
1-2 tablespoons dried dill
1-2 garlic cloves- whole
4 tablespoons vinegar
1 1/2 cups water

Method

1. Wash the cucumbers thoroughly.  Rub wet cucumbers with a bit of salt to remove any specs of dirt.  Slice cucumbers into spears.
2. Place peppercorns, coriander, mustard and fennel seeds in a mortar and with pestle bruise and slightly break the seeds and peppercorns, just enough to release the flavors.  This does not take much effort and is a good kid project.  If you do not have a mortar and pestle (I pulled mine out of the back of a cabinet), you can coarsely grind the seeds in a mini food processor, spice/coffee grinder or even an emptied pepper mill. Don’t grind more than a few seconds.  A fun method closest to the results of a mortar and pestle and one that will get a few ice packed frustrations out is to place the spices in a plastic bag and go at it with a rolling pin.  Pass the pin around so everyone gets a chance.  
3. In the marinating container, toss the cucumber spears, salt and spices together using your hands to coat the spears.  Pour water and vinegar over spears.  Cover and refrigerate for at least one hour before sampling.  The longer you marinate them, the more flavor they will draw in. These pickles will keep for 2-3 days. 

If you like pickles on your burger, this recipe works well with cucumber slices too. 

Recipe derived from Wicked Good Dinner’s Kosher-Style Dill Pickles
http://wickedgooddinner.blogspot.com/2010/05/kosher-style-dill-pickles-without.html

Cole Slaw
If you are in huge hurry and want to have the taste of cole slaw now, replace the cabbage with shredded lettuce—a combination of ice burg and green leaf is nice.  Combine with the rest of the ingredients and serve immediately.

Serves 4
1/2 head cabbage
1 tablespoon salt
1 carrot, peeled
1/3 cup celery leaves (the tops of stalks), loosely packed
2 tablespoons mayonnaise or plain yogurt
2 teaspoons apple cider vinegar or lemon juice
1-2 teaspoon sugar or honey
salt and pepper

Method

1. Thinly slice or shred cabbage.  Do this by slicing 1/2 head cabbage into 2 quarters.  Place the quarters down on the cutting board on one of the flat sides and make a diagonal cut to remove the thick stem.  Now slice to create thin strands. Place cabbage in a large bowl.  (Yes, you can buy the pre-shredded stuff but try it once from scratch.  It takes about 2 minutes to slice cabbage.) 
2. Grate carrot and add to bowl.  Add chopped celery leaves. 
3. In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper.  Taste dressing and adjust for tartness (vinegar/lemon juice) sweetness (sugar/honey) and salt/pepper.  Add dressing to cabbage mixture and toss well.  
4. Let cole slaw marinate (wilting cabbage) for at least 3 hours before serving.  

Steak Fries
This method of cooking steak fries is fast and results in a steak fry that is crisp on the outside and creamy inside.

1 large baking potato per person
1-2 teaspoons olive or canola oil per potato
salt and pepper
optional seasoning suggestions (pick one): paprika, rosemary,

Method

1. Preheat oven to 425˚F and wash and scrub potatoes to remove any dirt.  Prick potatoes with a fork on one side and bake for about 20 minutes.  (Potatoes will not be cooked through; they finish cooking during the next stage.)  
2. Remove potatoes from oven with tongs to a cutting board.  Using tongs or a dishcloth to protect your hands from the heat, cut potatoes in half lengthwise.  Cut each half into 4-5 wedges.  
3. Place potato wedges on a rimmed baking sheet and toss with olive oil, salt and pepper.  
4. Return potatoes to 425˚F oven and bake 10-12 minutes longer turning once or twice.  If you are using one of the optional seasonings, sprinkle on as potatoes come out of oven.  Try to time these so they can be eaten immediately. 

House Ketchup
I’m happy to see brands like Heinz eliminating corn syrup from their bottled ketchup.  Recently I was trying to find one without anything but the basics added and decided to make one from scratch based on my favorite Spanish tomato dip used for patatas bravas.  Once I started looking for recipes I recalled I once worked for a natural food company in Vermont famous for its all truly wonderful, all natural ketchup, Uncle Dave’s.  No wonder this journey seemed familiar.  

Ketchup is very simple.  Get the basic ratios down then get inventive and make a version your family loves.  Many cookbooks have recipes.  I like one form Better Homes & Gardens magazine assistant food editor Madison Mayberry.  If you want to experiment with some bolder flavors, I recommend making a batch and dividing it in half.  Serve the simple batch to purists and stir in some extras to the remaining half. Offer the bolder version to your personal research and development team—friends and family.  You may have developed a winner.  

Basic Ketchup
1 cup tomato sauce (try to find one that is only tomatoes and low sodium)
1/3 cup sugar
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Method

1. Mix the ingredients together in a small pot.  Cook over medium-low heat, stirring as needed, until sauce is cooked down a bit and thickened. This will take about 10 minutes. 
2. Variations and additions:  Use brown sugar instead of regular sugar.  Try different vinegars.  Add some spices (start with very small amounts): a pinch of ground cloves, celery seed, allspice, ground cinnamon, dry mustard, garlic, onion, cayenne pepper, smoked paprika, even dill or thyme. 
3. Pour ketchup into a bowl to cool slightly before spooning onto burgers and fries.

Summer will be back soon.

Apres Ski Cassoulet

A very simple version with smoked turkey thighs and frozen artichokes hearts.

It’s hearty, it’s elegant, it’s pure comfort food on a cold night.  And really, it’s just pork and beans at its best. This version combines a veggie version with a meat version so you get the most rich meal possible.  The recipe is forgiving because the must-haves list is short and the variations allow you to use what you have and what you like.  A crusty loaf of bread, a green salad and a hearty red wine keep things simple yet complete.  Bon appetit!

Cassoulet, the Easy Way
Serves 4, recipe may be doubled
Determine the meats you use by family preference. Provide a sampling of everything to amount to 1/4-1/3 pound meat per person (meat will cook down a bit) plus a cup+ of beans and vegetables.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 crushed garlic clove
2 celery stalks, sliced
1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
2 cans low-sodium white beans, drained
1 can chicken broth 1 teaspoon dried thyme (1 tablespoon fresh)
4-6 sun-dried tomatoes chopped (1/2 can tomatoes with  juice)
2 bay leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt (less if using regular rather than low-sodium beans)
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1-2 smoked turkey thighs or ham hocks (turkey preferred since it yields more meat, but your choice)
High quality pork sausage (chicken varieties can be substituted, try something new but not breakfast sausage)
Any of the following: thin pork chops (loin or shoulder, bone-in), duck confit, cooked ham chunks or slabs of pancetta, chicken (boneless, skinless chicken breast can be added part way through cooking if you have some picky eaters.)
Vegetable add-ins:
2 medium zucchini, sliced
1 can or package frozen artichoke hearts
1 cup green beans, sliced
2 carrots, peeled and sliced

In a large heavy bottomed pot with cover, sauté the celery and onion in olive oil then add garlic and stir briefly to release oils, being careful not to burn.  Lower heat and add beans, broth, tomatoes and seasoning. Nestle remaining ingredients (meats and vegetables) into beans and cover pot. Let simmer on medium-low temperature until vegetables are tender, about 45 minutes. 
This is a good slow cooker meal.  Set it up before you hit the slopes and enjoy après ski.  It will stew for up to 8 hours on low or 4-6 on high. Place onion, celery, carrots and green beans on the bottom of the pot if using a slow cooker.

Bonus Meals: Leftover cassoulet can be turned into soup for lunch the next day.  Remove any leftover meat and chop into bite-sized pieces.  Puree a few ladlefuls of the remaining cassoulet and return to pot with cubed meat. Add additional broth- enough to make it the consistency of soup.  It also makes a great bean dip, once meat is removed.  Just cook down the remaining beans and vegetables until almost all liquid is absorbed then puree.  Taste and adjust for seasoning. A nice blend-in is soft goat cheese to give the dip some body. You may want to add salt, pepper or crushed garlic also.  Serve as an appetizer with sliced vegetables and warm chunks of bread or crackers.

Apple Brown Betty

It’s such an old fashioned dessert.  I could not remember the last time I had it but the remains of a baguette and a few apples in the fruit bowl beckoned….

The brown betty I came up with has the best qualities of cinnamon raisin bread and apple pie filling.  It bakes up like a bread pudding but without the cream and milk so it’s a lighter dessert.  We serve it with plain yogurt, the kind with a bit of cream on top. (We’re enjoying Seven Stars Farm brand these days.)  These plain yogurts are low in sugars plus they are real food. 

This dessert serves four.  It’s nice to bake Rum Raisin Apple Brown Betty in individual ramekins so that everyone has their own.  The ramekins also provide the perfect balance of crisp cinnamon bread to warm apple filling.  If you’d like to serve this in a large casserole, choose one that is relatively shallow.  This recipe doubles and triples easily. 

Rum Raisin Apple Brown Betty
Ingredients
2 large apples, firm baking variety like Granny Smith, Jonathan, Jonagold, Crispin
1 1/2 cups day old bread, 1/3-1/2" cubes
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1/4 cup brown sugar, divided
salt
1 tablespoon rum
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2-3/4 cup raisins
1 tablespoon butter
4 oz water

Methods

1. Preheat the oven to 375˚F.  
2. Using half the butter, place a small pat of butter in each of the four ramekins.  
3. In a small bowl combine bread cubes, 1/2 the brown sugar and cinnamon.  Add a dash of salt and mix well using your fingers or a fork.  Set aside.
4. Peel, core and slice the apples.  Chop the apple slices into a rough chop so that the pieces will fit nicely into the dishes.  (If using one larger baking vessel, you can leave the apples in thin slices.)  Place apples in a small bowl and add rum, vanilla, raisins,, remaining brown sugar and another dash of salt.  Mix well. 
5. Layer half the bread mixture into the ramekins.  Divide the apple mixture in four and add to ramekins as next layer.  Top with remaining bread mixture.  Dot with bread cubes with remaining butter.  Pour an ounce of water into each ramekin.
6. Place ramekins in a shallow baking pan and cover entire top with tin foil. If you do not have a baking or roasting pan that fits all four ramekins, you can cover and bake them individually though the larger pan makes it easier to move vessels in and out of the oven.
7. Baked covered desserts 30 minutes at 375˚F until apples are cooked and soft.  Remove foil and cook another 10-15 minutes until betty’s are crisp on top and all the liquid is absorbed. 
8. Remove from oven and allow to cool 10 minutes before serving.  Serve with plain yogurt, freshly whipped cream or ice cream. 

Saturday Potato Corn Chowder

Fast and really warming, this soup can be ready by lunchtime after a morning of sledding with the family or –not again- clearing snow from driveway, cars, roof and walkways.  A hot bowl of chowder is just the thing.  And if you are snowed in, you probably have the ingredients for this recipe on hand.  I’ve been reading a cookbook based on old Amish recipes and this soup is a distillation of recipes from the potato and chicken-corn soups section.

Potato Corn Chowder
Serves 6

Ingredients
4 thin-skinned (eastern) potatoes
2 stalks of celery
2 cups water or chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
2 cups frozen corn
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 teaspoon salt and large pinch black pepper
3-4 cups low-fat milk
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped

Method

1. Peel and rough chop potatoes into 1/2 inch pieces.  Dice celery.   
2. Place potatoes and celery in a large pot with water or broth.   Bring to a boil then lower heat to medium and cook, partially covered, until potatoes are tender and easily mashed (about 10-12 minutes).  Stir occasionally to prevent potatoes from sticking to bottom of pot.  
3. Use a hand-help potato masher to create thin mashed potatoes.  (A immersion blender can be used as well but will create a less “rustic” result.)  
4. Stir in frozen corn, butter, salt, pepper and milk.  Cook over medium-high heat until corn is cooked through.  
5. Stir in parsley.  Serve plan or with hot sauce,  diced chicken, grated sharp cheddar cheese.  (Also nice with bread and cheese on the side.)

Last summer I bought corn in bulk at the farmers market.  The farm owners taught me to scrape and freeze the uncooked corn so I have plenty of frozen summer corn.  Commercially available frozen corn is fine here of course but check your farmers market next summer to find a farm that offers a similar deal.   Shucking and scraping 50 ears of corn was easier than you’d think and my neighbors made it a kids project. They were done in about an hour.

On Trend?

At the beginning of the year I made several trend predictions and promised updates.  I already have an update and not a happy one from a "pure foods" perspective.

Stonyfield's recent decision to discontinue its iconic line of Cream Top Yogurt flags the hard facts of life for brands and groceries trying to determine whether we really want good food or just good-sounding food.  While my prediction that groceries will be offering more artisanal foods holds, old standbys are at risk of leaving us including Stonyfield's very first product, Cream Top yogurt.

Their iconic yogurt with cream on top and lower fat, real yogurt below has been replaced by a "creamier" homogenized version that they call "stirred in," not wanting to stir up alarm with the word homogenized.

While I have no personal complaint against homogenization, it is a problem for many lactose-sensitive eaters who can digest non-homogenized dairy more easily. For myself and my family, I am sad to see a great example of pure foods that was so delicious leave store shelves in favor of a new yogurt blend that tastes much like every other one in the dairy case.  To stay current with America's taste for a creamier mouth-feel in many ready-to-eat foods,  Stonyfield felt they needed to change their base brand to improve sales.

After a week of complaints, Stonyfield posted an open letter on facebook under a newly created tab, Cream Top.  It reads in part," ... we owe our success to loyal fans...." then goes on to discuss the marketing decision to look away from those early days of sales support and discontinue the Cream Top line.  It also asks for feedback to help them monitor their decision.  (See full letter here.  Also see Stonyfield's wall under Stonyfield + others for consumer comments on the issue.)
 
 One commenter, to whom I am related (full disclosure),  notes:

Stonyfield is a for-profit company and that means is it market driven. When a product line trends lower in sales it is discontinued in favor of other products that will provide higher profits. It is not important to Stonyfield that the Cream Top Yogurt line is as quintessential as all the "organic" efforts they... hold so dear, for now. 

 It is arguable that all those efforts actually made the "COT" product line more susceptible to discontinuance due to their higher costs, and thus, lower profit margins. So, yes organics are great by themselves but they make companies have to be stricter on the shelves. Since American tastes are trending towards sweeter, already flavored, homogenized, thicker, individually packaged pablum that is exactly what you will see from Stonyfield. Heck, it probably won't be long before they put out a French-Fried flavored, thicker, creamier yogurt-like substance that you eat out of a bag! Don't get any ideas Stonyfield :-)   

The way I read the official "dear John" letter from Eric is: Thanks for starting and keeping our business going in hard times, but you are not numerous enough now to take up our shelf space so your services are no longer needed.

Stonyfield, I posit: There is nothing more "Organic" than a 32 oz container of plain, non-Homogenized yogurt that the consumer can flavor or sweeten or bake or mix to taste.

Smaller producers may fill gaps left by larger ones.  In fact, I have been hearing from readers confirming the increasing availability of organic and artisinal food of all kinds, including dairy.  One group in Vermont, Graze (www.grazedelivered.com), has used its market knowledge to create a New England-wide delivery system of organic and artisinal meat, dairy, baked goods and vegetables and will even deliver cooked meals to your ski house on weekends and holidays.  It's a great opportunity for local farmers but leaves me wondering if this food trend is, as often suspected, limited to those of higher means.  

When large suppliers like Stonyfield are moved by consumer demand for creamier, thicker, cheaper to produce yogurt and abandon widely available pure products, we have only ourselves to blame. Stonyfield has to listen to sales to survive and grow.  What will Stonyfield and other brands conclude from our marketplace actions next?

Baked Oatmeal Sqaures

This is the pure on-the-go oatmeal breakfast I have been dreaming of for many years.  Oatmeal muffins, cookies and breakfast bars are good but have too many other ingredients to really qualify as a breakfast that can kick off a morning.  Baked oatmeal squares taste like oatmeal in the bowl, and now, in your hand.

I made the first batch plain and the second with dried fruit and nuts (cherries and almonds).  Both were so tasty, not too sweet and pleasantly moist.  The squares and wedges can be cut and eaten right out of the oven, topped with some yogurt and sliced fruit, or cooled and then cut into portions for the road.  Keep individually wrapped portions refrigerated (or frozen) then put them in your bag on the way out the door.  They are really good room temperature and even better warmed in the microwave when you get to work. 

There are as many flavor variations as you can think of but one thing is not negotiable.  The oats have to soak over night (or eight hours) so you have to plan ahead to enjoy these.  The key to the recipe’s moisture and texture is that the oats are soft and have absorbed the liquid before the batter goes in the oven. On the bright side, it took me less than five minutes to mix the ingredients together last night for this morning’s treat.  In fact I did it during a commercial break.  This morning, while the oven heated to 350˚F, I poured the batter into an oil-sprayed metal pie plate and then baked it for thirty minutes. 

Try this simple version first.  If you like it you can double the recipe and have baked oatmeal squares all week long.  You can also experiment with your favorite flavors.  I’ve listed a few suggestions. 

Baked Oatmeal Squares
Makes 4 large squares or wedges

Ingredients
1 1/2 cups rolled oats (not instant)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 egg (or 2 egg whites)
3/4 cup milk or buttermilk (go for the buttermilk if you have it)
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
3/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt

Method

1. Combine all ingredients together in the vessel you’ll be soaking it in.  A bowl covered with plastic wrap, a 1-quart plastic food storage container, etc.  
2. Place covered container in refrigerator and let it sit at least 8 hours.  Note: Oats absorb liquid best in more acidic environments.  If you think you’ll remember, you can wait to add the baking powder and salt after soaking the rest of the ingredients to keep the ph-level acidic.  
3. When ready to cook, preheat oven to 350˚F.  Spray an 8” pie plate or baking pan with oil.  
4. If you are adding fruit, nuts or other goodies, stir them into the batter at this stage.  (If you haven’t added the baking powder and salt yet, do this now.)  
5. Pour the batter into the prepared pan.  I like to sprinkle on a little cinnamon sugar just before it goes in the oven for a little brûlée effect.   
6. Bake oatmeal at 350˚F for 30 minutes, until oatmeal is firm in the center.  Remove from oven and enjoy. 

Mix-Ins:
1/4 cup dried cherries and 2 tablespoons slivered almonds
1 small apple or pear, chopped in small pieces
1/4 cup blueberries or sliced strawberries
1/4 cup fruit jam (fig, raspberry, apricot, etc) or nut butter swirled into batter
Replace half the brown sugar with 1 tablespoon maple syrup
1/4 cup raisins and chopped peanuts
1/2 cup total of chopped dried fruit—try apricots, cranberries, mango, orange peel
1/4 cup mini chocolate chips (it will still have less sugar than a pop tart)
1/2 sliced banana

Can’t wait until tomorrow morning.  Wish I had bananas in the house.

Acknowledgments:
I started with the recipe for baked oatmeal from Pattycake (http://pattycake.ca/node/382) who in turn adapted it from Macheesemo (http://www.macheesmo.com/2010/06/baked-oatmeal/).  Quaker Oats has a version using instant rolled oats that doesn’t require soaking but it doesn’t travel.  I’ll be working on a version using ground oats (a Scottish version of pinhead oats) that will likely take much more soaking time but will be extraordinary.

Freezer Fish Chowders

Far away from the seashore or in the middle of a snowy winter that frosts over the sea and brings fisherman to shore, it’s nice to know that a warming seafood meal can be created quickly with pure ingredients from you freezer and pantry. The first recipe for fish chowder is made with any firm fish like cod, flounder or orange roughy.  The second is a recipe for shellfish bisque that you can make with frozen shrimp.  Neither of these takes as long as meat based stocks and soups so they are viable weeknight meals. 

Make the bisque if you usually have frozen shrimp, V-8 or tomato juice and canned clam juice on hand.  (Brandy and water can stand in for clam juice in a pinch) If you keep potatoes, frozen fish, potatoes and chicken or clam juice in the house, you can make the chowder. 

Frozen Fish Chowder
Serves 4

Ingredients
4 six-ounce frozen fish steaks or filets (cod, orange roughy, flounder, even salmon)
1 large onion
4 medium sized potatoes
1-2 celery stalks
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon flour
14 ounces clam juice, chicken broth or water or a combination. 
6 ounces milk
optional:
1 cup frozen corn or other frozen vegetable (spinach is good)
1/4 cup heavy cream

Method

1. Thaw fish while you are preparing the chowder base.  Lay filets or steaks out side by side.  If wrapped in plastic, fish may be placed in a shallow bath of tepid water to thaw quickly.  
2. Peel and slice onion no wider than 1/4 inch thick.  Peal and thinly slice or dice potatoes. Finely chop celery.  
3. Heat olive oil in a 3-quart heavy bottomed pot over a medium heat and lightly sauté onion.  When onions begin to sweat (sending off a bit of steam) add the potatoes and celery.  Stir to coat potatoes and celery in oil. 
4. Sprinkle flour over vegetables.  Continue to cook a minute longer, stirring to prevent potatoes from sticking.  
5. Add juice or broth. If adding water instead, add a little salt at this stage. Scrape up any potato or flour from the bottom of the pan and mix it into the broth. Bring mixture to a boil then reduce heat and cook on low for 15 minutes, until potatoes are quite soft.  
6. While soup cooks, cut fish into bite-sized pieces.  
7. Once potatoes are cooked, add milk to soup.  Soup may be partially pureed with an immersion blender at this stage to thicken it.  You can also use a potato masher to break down some of the potatoes and thicken the soup leaving nice chunks.  
8. If using any frozen vegetables, like corn, add at this stage.  Cream can be added at this stage also.  Cook until soup is very hot and frozen vegetables are heated through, about two-three minutes longer on medium-low heat.  
9. Lower heat and stir in fish.  Cover and let fish cook gently in hot soup, about 4-5 minutes depending on size of fish pieces.  Serve soup hot garnished with fresh parsley or dried chives. 

This soup reheats well on a low flame.  If storing for more than one day, freeze in individual servings. 

Frozen Shrimp Bisque
Serves 3

The key to a bisque is to “cook” the shells before placing them in the stock water. This imparts a deeper crustacean flavor.  It is reported that this is how bisque got its name, not as is often thought, from the Bay of Biscay.  (In French, “bis cuites” refers to twice-cooked, like a biscuit or biscotti.) This is a smooth, creamy soup but it does not always require cream for its smooth and silky consistency. Here I use cooked, pureed rice and some cornstarch to thicken the broth. Though we think of bisques as elegant and expensive soups, if you are using only the shells, as older recipes direct, you are making the most of your food supplies to make an inexpensive meal.  Cooks stretched their food budgets by getting every bit of flavor from all parts of their seafood then garnishing with a bit of seafood rather than stocking the pot full of expensive shellfish.  In fact, the shells were often crushed to extract as much flavor as possible from them before straining.  This recipe also works really well with leftover lobster shells, crab and crayfish. 

Ingredients
2 cups shrimp shells plus 1/3 pound shelled thawed shrimp or 1 pound frozen shrimp, peeled and thawed
1 tablespoon olive oil and/or butter
1 stalk celery, chopped
1 carrot , chopped or grated
1 small onion, chopped or grated
5.5 ounce can low sodium V-8 or tomato juice
1-2 cups water
1 cup clam juice or vegetable broth
Salt and black pepper
cooked rice, cornstarch as thickeners
garnishes: heavy cream, hot pepper paste or crushed red pepper, lemon, sherry

Special equipment: cheese cloth or a very fine strainer

Note: Instead of discarding shrimp shells from frozen shrimp, place them in a Ziploc bag and add to them until you have enough for a chowder.  You can also use one pound of frozen shrimp, peeled and thawed for this recipe. 

Method

1. Heat oil/butter in a heavy-bottomed skillet.  Add shrimp shells and sauté until shells turn pink and begin to brown.  
2. Add vegetables and sauté a few minutes, until lightly browned.  
3. Transfer shells and vegetables to a stockpot.  Add juice and enough water to cover shells and vegetables.  If using smaller shells, use your judgment here and add more water or broth.  
4. Bring stock to a boil them lower heat, cover and simmer 15-20 minutes. 
5. Line a strainer with a double layer of cheesecloth and strain soup.  
6. Taste and add seasonings as required.  Add more broth, clam juice or water as needed.  
7. Thicken soup with either or both of the following methods.  Add 1/2-1 cup cooked rice and puree.  Add 1 tablespoon cornstarch mixed with 2 ounces cold water.  Stir cornstarch slurry into soup and cook on a low simmer for 2-3 minutes, stirring occasionally.  
8. To serve, add raw shrimp or other shellfish to hot soup and heat on low until seafood is cooked through. 

Bonus: Bisque makes a great sauce base for seafood pasta.  In a large skillet combine a cup of bisque with a bit of cream, sherry and a squeeze of lemon.  Then add cooked pasta, cooked shellfish and steamed vegetables like asparagus, broccoli or even peas. Other nice additions are chopped tomato, parsley and/or basil.  Top with grated Parmesan cheese.

2011 Food Predictions

More natural flavors in packaged foods are one of the 2011 trend predictions.

At the risk of making a fool of myself, here are a few trends I think we'll be noticing in the coming year.  I'll keep track of how I do and report back a year from now.

Watch for a more active FDA in the food zone. 
In 2010 food companies received an increase in letters from the FDA warning them about misleading labels and unsubstantiated health claims.  The FDA is also taking a more forceful stance against food supplement companies making extraordinary claims. Diet, bodybuilding and sexual enhancement claims are the most common categories found to use illegal ingredients.  At the same time, fewer inspectors have meant fewer food processing plant inspections and several alarming outbreaks of food poisoning resulted.  Expect to hear more in the coming year about the safety of our food supply and see the FDA take a closer look at food and supplement claims.  

Better availability of American-made artisanal foods.
With NYC icon Murray's Cheese Shop now set up at Kroger's and other large grocery chains upping their game at the cheese counter there is more opportunity for us to get local, regional and domestic specialty cheeses as well as charcuterie items. Farmers markets will continue to be a great supplier too.  Groceries will continue to experiment with locally grown and organic produce.  What they decide about supplying these foods long term will be up to us and how we support the trend with our grocery dollars.

“Nose to Tail” lip service
If you are not already a fan of sweetbreads, scrapple, country pates and beef and kidney pies, I doubt the new fad of using the "whole hog" will transform your tastes.  I do think that we may all find ourselves more aware of what happens to the other parts of the bird, steer, lamb and pig that are not on our tables and gain a keener understanding of how meat pricing and inventory management works. 

Eating out again
As the work force returns in larger numbers, it will mean a return to dining out, especially at casual restaurants and at quick serve restaurants (known outside the business as fast food) that offer good deals on enticing sweet-savory breakfast items.  While our grocery stores try to meet our perceived interest in local and natural foods, will we show the same consumer behavior at restaurants or will another side of our consumer personality prevail?

More food corporations will add or replace ingredients with ones that are "natural." 
Reward the trend but remember that adding whole grains (natural or not) to a food that lists various forms of sugar as its top ingredients is not really an improvement.  Junk food with a halo is still junk food.  Look for natural ingredients in more of the good foods you eat and be thankful that your sour cream & onion chips will have fewer artificial flavors and preservatives. And remember, foods like cottonseed oil in your "natural" potato chips may still be too high in saturated fat and too low in monounsaturated fats.

Spanish, Portuguese and Moroccan foods
I foresee growing access and familiarity with Mediterranean foods from the western side of the salty sea.  We already shop for manchego cheese from Spain, eat falafel from carts and packaged mixes and are mastering Portuguese salt cod dishes without even realizing their proximity both to each other and, more recently, to us.

Vegan recipes abound.  Likewise Gluten-free foods.
All good especially as it answers the needs of many who suffer from serious food allergies and celiac disease (which requires a wheat free diet).  With the improvement in labeling, some labels will look silly.  Try to contain your mirth when you see steamed broccoli labeled vegan (no eggs or dairy, duh) that is also gluten free (no wheat).  On the other hand, with all the extras in packaged foods, perhaps we should be sure our steamed broccoli is just that.

School lunches (and breakfasts) will lose out as many local budget-crunched school boards juggle union pensions, new technology needs and core programs vying for funds.  Government food programs still get in their own way by trying to serve both the large corporate farms and food industry and the nutritional needs of our nation's little ones.  Schools that are trying student-gardens may see the most benefit for the least investment.

Continued perplexity about our nation's obesity rates among many of the food elite.
Educated, slim, active foodies are in the dark about why most of our population can't just eat like them.  Until we look at this issue with compassion, good statistical information and a willingness do more than throw up our hands, we will continue to be flummoxed.  Making good meals fast and cheap is not easy without some basic training in food selection, preparation and storage for home, office and school use.  Many people get about half hour for lunch and are far from any nutritious sources.  If you are an expert and wondering about the food crisis in this country, consider volunteering to teach your cooking skills via organizations like "Share our Strength."  You may be surprised at what you learn about the realities of "food insecure homes" in your area.

Spanish Brunch

Menus inspired by Spanish tapas are ideal for breakfast and brunch and you probably already know tapas make great cocktail party fare.  What I like about a Spanish brunch is that most of it can be prepared ahead, like Italian antipasti, so host and guests can enjoy a leisurely morning.  This mix and match menu works well for vegetarian and meat-eating guests as well as picky younger eaters.  Here’s the menu:

Spanish Tortilla 

(egg-based torte with potatoes and parsley)
Spanish cheese platter with Jamon Serrano and Fresh & Dried Fruits
Meson Mushrooms
Pan Tomat
Patatas Bravas (fiery potatoes)
Assorted Pastries

Cava or Sangria

Orange Juice, Coffee, Tea, Hot Chocolate

Spanish Tortilla
Spanish tortilla, closely related to the frittata, is the brunch centerpiece.  Infused with potatoes, onion, parsley and sometimes  chorizo sausage,  it can be made a day ahead.  If you are not confident making one yourself, you can easily make it as a frittata by making a big egg scramble that is finished in the oven instead of flipped pan to pan in the old style to finish it.  Or if you have a Spanish restaurant in town, order one or two and reheat them.  (You can even order one from LaTienda.com.) 


Tortilla tastes good hot but is very at home room temperature or just warmed through.  Slice the round torte the classic way—in bite-sized squares and serve with toothpicks or slice into wedges like a quiche or pie. 

Another way to get the flavors of Spanish tortilla is to bake mini crustless quiches in large muffin cups or 1/2 cup ramekins.  For each mini-tortilla  combine 1 egg, 1/4 cup diced boiled potatoes, two tablespoons chopped onion sautéd in olive oil and a teaspoon of chopped fresh parsley.  Add a bit of salt and pepper and pour into well-oiled muffin cups.  Bake in a 325˚F oven for 15 minutes until egg is cooked through (not jiggly as in quiche).  Don’t skimp on the oil in the muffin cup since it is part of the tortillas’ distinctive flavor and will allow the mini-tortilla to slip out easily. 

If you have unsalted potato chips in the house, follow famed Spanish chef Ferran Adrià's method (popularized here by Chef Jose Andres) and replace the cooked potatoes with lightly crushed chips.  Let the mixture sit 10 minutes before baking to allow the eggs to soften the potato chips.   Ever since I tried this method, it is my go to tortilla ingredient.  

Spanish Cheese Platter
A platter of ham and cheese is an easy accompaniment now that Spain’s Jamon Serrano (dried ham) and Manchego cheese are widely available.  Chorizo sausage is also a good fit on a platter if not used in the tortilla.  Be sure to get the cured type that requires no cooking.  Set out small bowls of olives and Marcona almonds and garnish the platter with dried or fresh figs.  Fresh sliced cantaloupe would not be out of place here also.

Meson Mushrooms
I learned to make grilled mushrooms the Spanish way by watching the grill master at a meson (tapas house) beneath the Plaza Mayor in Madrid.  He would not give out the recipe but I think I got the gist of it pretty well via many enjoyable repeat visits.  Meson mushrooms are simply grilled mushroom caps with a chunk of cured chorizo in the center cavity.   When they come off the grill, finish them with a good squeeze of lemon juice and fresh parsley.  Don’t skimp on the parsley. And make sure it is fresh not dried. The herb is much loved in Spain and once you taste it in tortilla and meson mushrooms you will appreciate the terrific pop of “green” flavor it brings to more subtle egg and mushroom dishes.   These mushrooms can be prepped ahead and baked instead of grilled in a 400˚F degree oven for 12-15 minutes.  Finish with lemon juice and parsley as with the grilled version.

Pan Tomat
Pan Tomat is a specialty of the Barcelona and the Catalan region of Spain.  Guests can prepare these themselves from a shared plate.  Set out slices of lightly toasted rustic bread, halved fresh garlic cloves and halved small tomatoes.  Guests rub the garlic and tomato over the rough surface of the toast (warm or room temperature) to infuse the bread with a light, fragrant coating of juice and pulp.  Full flavor extra virgin olive oil is drizzled on top.  Be sure to use a Spanish olive oil for a robust olive flavor in these dishes.  You may be lucky enough to have a wide selection in your market but if not, I like Goya extra virgin olive oil for most Spanish dishes.  Pan tomat is Spain’s answer to garlic bread and it goes perfectly with tortilla and platters of ham and cheese.

Patatas Bravas
Of all the items on the menu, this one may show up again at your next Super Bowl party.  These are for every hash brown and steak fry lover in the house.  They get their name from the spicy tomato-based dipping sauce.  Use small new potatoes or larger ones cut in quarters and halves. First boil a batch until just tender.  Drain and toss with olive oil then roast in a hot oven (alongside the mushrooms) turning occasionally until all sides are crisp.  Serve lightly salted with a simple tomato sauce (not marinara) and a  shot of hot sauce.  (If you’d like a sweeter version, mix ketchup with hot sauce.)  Make them as hot as you and your family likes.  The potatoes can also be dipped in a good mayonnaise spiked with sherry vinegar.

Beverages
Any combination of the list below will match the meal:
Cava (Spain’s sparkling wine)
Orange juice
Sangria—white or red
Hot chocolate, coffee, tea

Fruits
Oranges—sliced on a platter
Sliced cantaloupe
Dried fruits

Pastries
Churros are fried tubes of dough rolled in sugar and are sold on street corners in Spanish cities.  They are beginning to be seen here but the pre-packaged ones are not fresh tasting.  An alternative is to pick up fresh donuts.  Cream-filled ones are very Iberian but small donut holes coated in simple cinnamon sugar are also a good (and lighter) choice. 

New Year’s is a nice time to throw an impromptu cocktail party or a brunch.  Or perhaps a leisurely breakfasts with just family.   Happy 2011^

Chocolate Stocking Report

Dark chocolate is very popular in this household.  Our siblings know this and treat us to some truly special ones at this time of year. 

This year we received a stockingful of dark chocolate bars to sample and compare.  It’s every chocoholic’s dream holiday.  We try to restrain ourselves and only sample one or two at a time.  It helps us keep the nuances of flavor clear and our heads from spinning.  So far we have broken into three bars and thought we had a clear favorite.  Today there was a split decision.  As we sample we are contemplating what to cook with the briefcase-sized brick of semi-sweet chocolate sent by another sibling.  Grated semi-sweet chocolate in hot milk makes very nice hot chocolate.  I have several fondue recipes floating around that would put the giant bar to good use.  A neighbor told me that the chocolate cake she recently baked for a crowd required a full two pounds of chocolate.  I think I’m set for any eventuality.  And then there are the profiteroles we made the other day that only require freshly made fudge sauce as a topping. 

I won’t divulge the winner of this year’s dark chocolate competition but I do encourage you to set up a sampling too.  It may be too late for stockings, but New Year’s is around the corner and a tray or table stocked with a variety of chocolates is fun for guests.  Many people like to sip red wine with really dark chocolate.  Others like a snifter of rum or brandy.

Chocolate isn’t the only food that lends itself to party sampling.  Now that craft-level caramels and toffees are popular and abundant, you can create a sampling of salted caramels, chocolate-covered  toffee, dulce de leche cheesecake and butterscotch brownies either homemade or from speacialty stores.  On the savory side, a salsa tasting or cheese sampling is very easy.  Pick a theme to create a focus, like goat cheeses or blues and dig in.  It’s a great way to find a new favorite.

Special thanks to Diana, Jim, Julia, Liam, Chester and Bill.  This blog entry would not have been possible without you.

Holiday Bread Pudding

This is a festive and light holiday dessert that combines several seasonal favorites.   Cinnamon-sugar, almonds and sliced pears nestle into a loaf of eggnog infused bread pudding. We like ours with raisins but dried cranberries or cherries make the season bright too.  Leftovers make a terrific post holiday “French toast.”  Individual slices can be re-heated in the oven or grilled then dusted with extra cinnamon or powdered sugar. 

Bread pudding using an eggnog base makes sense since eggnog is basically a custard—milk, eggs and sugar.  If you have homemade eggnog leftover from a party, this is a good use for it.  You can also use store-bought eggnog.  Since the eggnog is cooked in the dessert, there is no raw egg in this recipe.

At this time of year it is easy to find fruited breads or ones made with eggs like challah, pannetone and paska.  You can use regular cinnamon-raisin bread for this recipe (or even regular bread) but if you have some day old holiday bread, pick that.  This recipe uses about half a loaf of most breads.  

Pear and Cinnamon Eggnog Holiday Bread Pudding
Ingredients
6-8 slices of raisin, paska or challah bread  (4 cups of 1/2 inch cubes)
(1/2 cup raisins if bread does not have raisins already)
12 ounces eggnog
2 eggs
1 ounce rum or brandy (optional)
1/4-1/3 cup sugar*
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
2 teaspoons cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg
dash salt
1 pear, cored and sliced (peel if thick skinned)
2 tablespoons sliced almonds
1 tablespoon cinnamon sugar

Method

1. Lightly oil a 9x5 loaf pan with canola oil.  
2. Place bread cubes in a wide bowl.  
3. Combine eggnog, eggs, liquor if using, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon, nutmeg and salt in a smaller bowl or 2-cup measuring cup. Whisk with a fork to break up eggs and combine thoroughly.  
4. Pour eggnog mixture over bread cubes and toss lightly to cover all the bread with liquid. Move bread cubes to the prepared pan and press slices of pear into pudding so that slices are 2/3 submerged.  
5. Sprinkle top with almonds and cinnamon sugar.   (Bread pudding may be covered and refrigerated at this point overnight or for several hours.) 
6. Now, preheat oven to 375˚F.  (If you have not stored the bread pudding, waiting while the oven preheats will give the bread cubes time to absorb the liquid.)  
7. When oven is pre-heated, bake bread pudding, uncovered, for 45 minutes.  Test in the center with a skewer for doneness.  Pudding is done when skewer comes out clean but still moist (no uncooked egg mixture on skewer) and pudding pulls away from sides of pan.  Let bread pudding rest about 10 minutes before serving. 

Serve slices warm with a scoop of plain , whole yogurt, whipped cream or ice cream and if desired a teaspoon of maple syrup.  Keep leftovers refrigerated. 

*Eggnog recipes vary.  Some are sweeter than others.  Test your mixture by using the lower amount of sugar and heating a bread cube doused with a few teaspoons of the eggnog mixture.  (Microwave on low for 30-45 seconds or until egg is cooked through).  Taste the cooked egg and bread and adjust for sweetness.

Holiday Whipped Cream

Whipped cream for cakes, pies and other desserts that can hold up to holiday travel and buffets if stabilized with a bit of gelatin.  A touch of gelatin prevents the cream from separating and “weeping” into a puddle, much like the sad look of an aging snowdrift. 

Adding gelatin is an easy step and mostly relies on having some plain gelatin powder in the pantry.  The technique is detailed below and if you don’t have the necessary ingredient, I’ve just discovered that mixing some softened cream cheese into whipped cream has a similar stabilizing effect (and tastes divine with chocolate or pumpkin desserts.  (Good with fruit pie too.)

Your whipped cream will hold up for hours but still needs to be refrigerated since it remains a dairy product. 

Cream Cheese Stabilized Whipped Cream
Makes about 1 cup (recipe may be doubled)

1 tablespoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 ounce cream cheese, softened

Method

1. Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla in a medium mixing bowl and whip with a balloon-style wire whisk or a hand held mixer until cream is thick and holds a peak. 
2. In a small bowl combine softened cream cheese with a large spoonful of whipped cream.  This will lighten the cream cheese and allow you to fold it into the whipped cream more easily. 
3. Gently fold cream cheese mixture into whipped cream.  Refrigerate until ready to use. 

Activated Gelatin

 Gelatin- Stabilized Whipped Cream
Makes 2 cups
(This is a commercial recipe used by bakeries).

1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin
4 teaspoons water
1 cup whipping cream
3 tablespoons granulated sugar (add more to taste, up to 1/4 cup)
1/2 -1 teaspoon vanilla

Method

1. Combine gelatin and cold water in small saucepan and let sit until thickened. 
2. Once gelatin has thickened, place pan over low heat, stirring constantly just until gelatin dissolves. Remove from heat and set aside to cool slightly while you whip the cream.  
3. Combine the cream, sugar and vanilla in a large mixing bowl and whip with a balloon-style wire whisk or a hand held mixer until cream is slightly thickened. 
4. Lower the speed and gradually add gelatin to whipped cream mixture (or fold in gelatin if whipping by hand). 
5. Raise speed and whip at high speed until whipped cream becomes stiff and holds peaks. 

Cakes iced with whipped cream must be kept refrigerated.

Now that you have mastered softening and using gelatin, you may be interested in making you own fruit gelatin and mousse desserts.  Just follow the directions on the box.